Plunge router on a router table (novice question)

It is BUTT ugly and has a rather sickly looking orange plastic pieces but I have had mine for about 3-4 years and have no complaints. Being able to change bits above the table is wonderful, so is being able to make coarse and fine adjustments with minimal effort.

Reply to
Leon
Loading thread data ...

I've actually stopped bothering with the above-table hex key on my Bosch, it's just as easy to reach underneath to pop the clamp and use the knob on the fixed base at the same time. Changing bits is my only complaint with the Bosch, if they incorporated a spindle lock to make it possible to swap bits in the table it would be ideal IMO.

Reply to
DGDevin

With "my" Triton I have to reach under the table to make height adjustments, no big deal. IIRC the newer Tritons allow above table height adjustment.

The problem with many routers even those with spindle locks is that the collet does not extend far enough through it's base to allow you to put a wrench on the collet from the top side of the table. The Triton allows wrench engagement from the top side.

Reply to
Leon

That was the problem with mine until I replaced the collet with an "Eliminator" chuck. No need for a wrench (does need a hex key, 'though) or spindle lock.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

Reply to
Tom Veatch

I always half wondered what the "big deal" was with those hex key collets. Thanks for pointing out the apparent obvious. BUT does that Eliminator chuck also extend far enough above the top for above the top bit changes? If it does it could open up a lot of potential to other wise not suitable for above the table bit change routers.

Reply to
Leon

Momentary switches are required by law in the EU and in addition they now (I think) require an interlock button to be pressed first - I should know as I was using a router only a couple of week ago that was less than a year old but my memory is numb with age.

Sometimes it seems a PITA and indeed it will be for a router table but it's much safer than having a locked on switch and an out of control freehand router :)

From the way the switch on my Makita compound mitre saw is arranged with a bolt on complex linkage I suspect that in some jurisdictions they too can use a lock on switch, in the UK we have to release an interlock with the reverse of a knuckle before we can squeeze the trigger and lower the saw. Easy to do in an instant but you still have to remember to get your other hand out of the way of the blade!

Reply to
Mike

You might, depending on the design be able to use one of the Trend fine height adjusters.

formatting link
table here

formatting link
at news:uk.d-i-y will probably have more experience of your specific router.

As for keeping the button pressed - use a cable tie - but fit a decent no volt release switch to it first, these often come with cheap router tables.

Reply to
Mike

Depends on your wallet:

formatting link
(The Porsche of lifts)

or a slightly cheaper deal:

formatting link
that the router raiser is the store bought version of option # 1.

John Pict> (now with correct user name - sorry)

Reply to
Pat Barber

I suppose it depends on the specific router/mounting technique combination, but with my PC7518/Jessem Rout-R-Lift it does.

Before the Eliminator, it was possible to do above the table bit changes by raising the router to the upper limit of the lift and removing the table insert. There was just enough room to maneuver the wrenches (2 required for that router) into position through the insert opening to loosen the collet if you held your tongue just right, and the moon was in the proper phase.

With the Eliminator, raising the router brings the hex recess locking screw on the chuck above the table insert. So the increase in the elevation of the chuck is enough to let the chuck can be loosened completely from above the plane of the table. Whether that increase is sufficient in every case, obviously I can't say.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

Reply to
Tom Veatch

WOW ....

this was an incredibly helpful post (and inspiring at that)

Thank you sooooo much.

Cheers

John

Reply to
John Picton

Just ran across something else that addresses that problem:

formatting link
't know how the Xtreme Xtension compares with the eliminator WRT price, amount of extension, runout, etc., but it looks like the bit retention method is similar. The big difference seems to be that the Eliminator replaces the existing collet and the Xtreme Xtension, like a router bit, is clamped within the existing 1/2" collet.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

Reply to
Tom Veatch

On Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:08:59 +0100, Mike wrote (in article ):

Devil router. This transformed it from a royal pita to something quite usable. Check ebay. You may get a better deal (or worse, depending,,,) OR phone Dave Evans at toolsave 0121 525 0222

I just had a look at the pic of your router on the Trend site.

The FHA fits instead of the shiny rod running vertically behind the red knob on the left of the picure. Basicaslly it is just a tube, threaded at the bottom to fit over one of the depth--stop screws on the turret, bottom left of pic. There's a "tap" handle on top of the rod. When you turn it "down" the threads pull down on to the turret screw and pulls the body of the router down to meet it.

The plunge springs will fight you for possession of the router body. I f you can figure out how to remove one or both, it will make adjustment far easier

IME, taking the springs out makes a huge difference. I have a router JUST for table use with ONE of the two springs taken out. MUCH easier.

HOWEVER>>>>> configured thus, it's not really safe for "right way up" mode.

Your best bet is to follow the old saying: "You can never have too many routers"

It might be worth hunting for a used _second_ router for one use or the other, bearing in mind the FHA will cost umm,, thirteen quid or thereabouts it might make economic sense to get another cheapie with a built-in FHA and keep the one you have for freehand use.

I presume you have something like a Powercraft (Aldi) type table, which comes with a no-volt switch?

If so, centering the router base under the table is a bit Heath Robinson, with waggly clamps. You'll never get the router out and back in in exactly the same place. It won't take most half-inch routers' bases. The fence isn't straight enough to 'joint" with. It's not heavy enough to allow you to push a router up against its springs without a screw-up FHA. Other than that, it's a stunning little table that is really ideal for leaving a router in and doing all those little jobs that such a configuration eats up. Great for through dovetails with a stottman jig

What it is REALLY good for is teaching you how simple it would be to make your own router table that overcomes all of the shortcomings it has. Seriously, if I hadn't started with a similar model I would have missed so much... and it is always handy for keeping that car-boot bargain router (that you'll pick up eventually) in with a round-over bit for.. well, everything, really.

A big spring clamp worked as a switch holder on the Power Devil. I'm not sure what'd be best for yours. Cable ties are also useful. I use Duct tape on the Trend. As has been said, all new European routers have, by law, to have switches that make them impossible to operate safely in a router table. Older designs such as the Elu and DeWalt clones of the Elu casing/casting arrangement are exempt. If you think this is a pain, just wait till you want to use a dado head on a saw table...

Oh.. a 5mm threaded rod witll probably fit the turret, and if you locknut it in place (on the turret, instead of one of the existing screws) , you can then jam/epoxy a 5mm nut in the end of a piece of pipe and wind THAT down onto a big washer over the rod and above the body casting. You'll need to make some sort of handwheel or tap handle arrangement for it, but if you want cheap, that might be the way to go.

Reply to
Bored Borg

Thanks, I was wondering if its secondary function was to enable top mounting regardless of router.

Reply to
Leon

Sorry for the delay in replying - there was so much info in there I need to take it in before a considered reply. At first glance the idea of the trend FHA that you mention sounds interesting. Did you mean that Dave at toolsave would be able to provide this, or perhaps a router or advice?

I will have to investigate if the kit is compatible.

I have also been thinking of a second router (and yes you are absolutly correct my table is an ALDI powercraft one).

I am off to read the rest of your message - will report back soon.

Thanks so much for the detail in your response.

Kind regards

John

Reply to
John Picton

Hmmmm, that has possibilities. I could pick up another router like the used Bosch 1617 I saw recently for $75 and just leave it in the table full-time. SWMBO would be unlikely to see both routers at the same time and therefore not catch on....

Reply to
DGDevin

Hey, sounds like a plan to me!! ;)

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

Reply to
Tom Veatch

On Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:42:50 +0100, John Picton wrote (in article ):

Toolsave is really a discount warehouse with a bit of showroom "display" material rather than a "test drive" type shop, but I've found them cheaper than anywhere else - by about the cost of the VAT - or, put another way, it's tantamount to free postage. Get the product codes off the Trend site. If they haven't got it in stock, it's normally next working day. They also do most U,K, available brands - DeWalt, Festool, Fein, Milwaukee etc.

I think the best thing to do would be to rig up what you've got so it's usable - i.e. add a FHA - and then use it for a while and see what YOU think the shortcomings are. If you have a similar experience to me you'll probably find that you want the Oomph, adjustability and stability of a 1/2"" router (which won't fit your table) I went for the Trend T9, now obsolete but identical to the Fein 1800 (?) and the Metabo something-or-other is also identical but has a dial gauge built in (wow!!) I'll certainly buy Trend again but the Triton offers a lot of bang for the buck, assuming you want to move up past the DIY B&Q types. The bigger better models don't scream anyhing like as nastily as the smaller, cheaper 'uns.

Meanwhile, FFA Concept Zinced Steel Threaded Rod (L)1000mm x (Dia)5mm EAN: 3232630218358 Only £1.66

from B&Q.

I'm not 100% certain you turret screws are 5mm, but the Trend FHA that fits the Trend T5, Power Devil etc. _is_ 5mm. Assuming that yours is, then all you need is a 5inch-ish bit off tube to go over the rod, a few nut....

One thing you need to be aware of that probably hasn't been obvious... Historically, routers developed on both sides of the pond at the same time but where as the rebel colonials developed and near-perfected the fixed-base configuration, in Europe - and Britain - the effort largely went into the plunger type. This _may_ explain the partisan championing of one type or the other. Exceptions prove the rule, of course. Bosch do a swappable base thing. I'm sure there are home-grown USA plunger routers, but we tend not to see 'em over here because of the weird rebel colonial voltage they insist on using. It's a shame 'cos stuff like the Porter-Cable are fabulous pieces of kit.. anyway, my take on it is that plunger types are no worse than fixed for router table work but if you are going to buy a router lift, then you're duplicating the mechanism if you use a plunger, so in that case a fixed-base motor has less scope for Fuquarps.

Buy a Trend depth gauge - the horseshoe shaped thing with the scale that slides up the middle. About 7 quid. I promise you'll not regret it.

Read everything you can on router table construction

Use sunscreen... sorry, ear protectors. Really.

Reply to
Bored Borg

I picked up one at the Woodworking Show, Peachtree is clearing them out for $39.00 (regular $69.00). With a $4.00 bushing for 1/4" bits it's certainly worth a try. It adds enough height that I should easily be able to change bits above the table. The Peachtree guy said the only thing to look out for is not cranking the hex screw too far in either direction, apparently it works some kind of cam that clamps onto the router shaft.

Reply to
DGDevin

Missing notes on your issue:

formatting link
?

**************************************************************
Reply to
pat

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.