Planning MDF?

I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch. Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.

I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was thinking the planer knives would just dull up.

It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this several more times.

Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading to the belt sander myself but....

MJ

Reply to
mjmwallace
Loading thread data ...

Slice it off on the table saw and clean up with belt sander.

Reply to
CW

------------------------------- Cut all the 3x8 pieces, including future needs, to size, then take a trip to the local drum sanding shop for a one time deal.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

------------------------------- Buy a sheet of 5/8 MDF.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Someone else mentioned the table saw. I'm assuming if you have a planer, you have a table saw. I've used an upside down belt sander, clamped to a table, as a stationary sander with good results. If the surface has to be finished quality, using a planer could give you a good excuse to sharpen your blades. However, with such a small piece, your blades probably won't even notice.

Reply to
-MIKE-

How thick?

Got a table saw with a good fence? If it's over 1/4" thick, I'd head for my table saw at those dimensions.

One, or two at the most, passes.

(I make all my 3/8" thick 'loose tenon' stock at the table saw, up to 3"

  • wide).
Reply to
Swingman

I have successfully sanded MDF with a ROS but taking off 1/8", 1/16" from both sides will give you a surface that is not like the factory outer surface. You are going to start getting into the softer fuzzier layers. So if the surface matters yo might want to rethink and for sure test on same stock samples.

Reply to
Leon

Use a table saw, like others have mentioned, and that will give you the best results relatively quick. I would recommend not using a jointer or planer on that stuff. It will dull blades quickly.

Reply to
Gordon Shumway

Another thought. I don't know what you're building but could you modify the design to accommodate the full thickness or maybe even the next thinner thickness?

Of course if you are building a flux capacitor I can understand needing that specific thickness.

Reply to
Gordon Shumway

------------------ If you cross cut pieces to 8" length before sanding, may be a problem.

8" may be too short to go thru sander.

Probably have to rip 3"x96" strips to go thru sander, then cross cut to length.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

How about take that 3X96 strip and just run it through the table saw with the fence set to 5/8" or whatever you want to end up with. If the narrow rip is a problem, just stop when there's about a foot or so left unripped, and use that as a "safety handle" (tm) to lift the strip up off the saw table. Though personally I find a 5/8" rip not too challenging with the proper push stick (push block, actually) made ahead of time.

Reply to
Larry W

---------------------------- "Swing" got there first.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Resaw with a decent carbide combination blade and be done with it. I wouldn't belt sand except with a Performax-type thickness sander. That would take the surface out of flat.

Reply to
Father Haskell

In the FidoNet days a forum wasn't called an "echo" for nothing. :)

Reply to
Swingman

Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed. -- Storm Jameson

Reply to
Larry Jaques

---------------------- I'll still take option 2.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

3 inches by 8 inches by what? Which side do you need to remove the 1/8 inch from?
Reply to
Jerry

You idiot, he has to remove the 1/8" from the THICK side.

Reply to
Gordon Shumway

And he said that WHERE, you idiot?

Reply to
Snoop2

Thanks to all who responded.

The piece in question was a zero clearance insert for my table saw.

I bought some 1/2 MDF, traced the original insert and routed the MDF with a pattern bit. Came out nice.

When I put it in the saw, I noticed that it stuck up above the table. Knowing that I needed to cut out where the saw has supports, I did that with a forsner bit. Still stuck. I found that my saw has a bit of a manufacturing "flaw". There is a slight lip on the bottom of the blade cutout that is not even with the top. I figured that I just needed to take out about 1/8 of an inch at these points I'd be happy. Hence my post.

What I did - I have a drum sander and all I needed to do was to slightly sand the edges where the MDF was catching. I did and it now fits fine!

I will be making more of these, so thanks for the tips about resawing. I think that might work. I also think if I just routed a rabbet around the outer edges that probably would work as well.

Again, thanks to all who helped me.

MJ

Reply to
MJ

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.