I need to take some MDF down about an 1/8 of a inch.
Piece is 3 inches by 8 inches.
I can use a sander (belt), or the planer. I was
thinking the planer knives would just dull up.
It's not a one time deal. I would be doing this
several more times.
Ideas and thoughts about this? I'm heading
to the belt sander myself but....
If you cross cut pieces to 8" length before sanding, may be a problem.
8" may be too short to go thru sander.
Probably have to rip 3"x96" strips to go thru sander, then cross cut
How about take that 3X96 strip and just run it through the table saw
with the fence set to 5/8" or whatever you want to end up with. If the
narrow rip is a problem, just stop when there's about a foot or so left
unripped, and use that as a "safety handle" (tm) to lift the strip up
off the saw table. Though personally I find a 5/8" rip not too
challenging with the proper push stick (push block, actually) made
ahead of time.
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
On 9/10/10 12:17 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Someone else mentioned the table saw. I'm assuming if you have a planer,
you have a table saw.
I've used an upside down belt sander, clamped to a table, as a
stationary sander with good results.
If the surface has to be finished quality, using a planer could give you
a good excuse to sharpen your blades. However, with such a small piece,
your blades probably won't even notice.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
On 9/10/2010 12:17 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Got a table saw with a good fence? If it's over 1/4" thick, I'd head for
my table saw at those dimensions.
One, or two at the most, passes.
(I make all my 3/8" thick 'loose tenon' stock at the table saw, up to 3"
I have successfully sanded MDF with a ROS but taking off 1/8", 1/16" from
both sides will give you a surface that is not like the factory outer
surface. You are going to start getting into the softer fuzzier layers. So
if the surface matters yo might want to rethink and for sure test on same
On Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:17:59 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Another thought. I don't know what you're building but could you
modify the design to accommodate the full thickness or maybe even the
next thinner thickness?
Of course if you are building a flux capacitor I can understand
needing that specific thickness.
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