Just received my new planer, a Grizzly 20" G1033X. Well I had a Dewalt
before this & never adjusted anything, just popped in the blades & away we
go. Now I have to check the height of the infeed roller, outfeed roller, bed
rollers, chip breaker, pressure bar!! I'm glad to have it, but it's a bit
daunting at 1st. So while reading the manual they say all these were set at
the factory but to check them. Haven't yet but I will as I hear a bit of
chattering. Grizzly says the infeed,outfeed roller, chip breaker & pressure
bar should all be 0.040" below the DBC of the blade arc. I happened to
Google the set up & found a great video stream.
I found this very helpful, a guy called Bob Vaughan, it looks old, but still
very informative. He claims the pressure bar should be -0.003 & the others
should be about 0.32.
So my question is what are your experiences? Have you checked & measured all
this in your machines and do you keep your pressure bar a tad shy of the DBC
of the blade arc? Could something have changed that makes the Grizzly manual
correct to keep them all the same? Would you adjust them to 0.40 or
Vaughan's recommended 0.32?
I spent a lot of time trying to get this same unit to run well. It was
the older straight cutter and different control box style but. It was
new just a few years ago, so likely the same manual. As I recall, the
manual had you make these little wood blocks that cleared the lower
rollers and gave you a surface for measuring the upper rollers. We
couldn't get the thing to feed reasonably no matter how we adjusted
it. The cutting was always good regardless of how we tweaked it but
the feed always stalled. Finally we found that the outfeed roller was
badly bent. It had an arc of almost an 1/8" at the center. Griz sent
out a new roller no questions asked.
I reset everything to the factory settings as defined in the manual
and once we had the true outfeed roller mounted, it ran like a champ.
The big problem with these style planners is the bed rollers. If you
are running rough stock you need to jack them up, but you get more
snipe. For fairly smooth stock you can get them real close to the bed
and get a good feed. The problem is they are adjusted with an ecentric
bushing at the end of the roller and a set screw. The screw either
slips easy or digs in and creates a dentent so you pretty much have to
leave them set in one place once it digs in. Steel city is the only
ones who have tried to adress this on this design and they added a
little wing to the end of the roller to make it easier to roll the
roller to adjust the eccentric but they still use the same set screw.
I always wanted to try and get some of that slippery white stock
(phenolic?) and drop the bed rollers down and replace it with the flat
plastic base. This is what I have in my 18" Woodmaster and when it is
setup as a planer I can run 12" wide all day long. Of course it has a
7 1/2 lesson moter but the feed motor is nothing special and it feeds
Let me know if you have any other questions I spent a lot of time with
Really appreciate the feed back. I'll work to the factory specs. Down with
the flu today, but I might get out to the cold garage to start. Thanks
again. I do have another question though. Since I got this machine I've
read a few times from different sources about the bed rollers & setting them
by whether you plane rough or smooth stock. This is news to me, It sounds
like people would plane rough lumber if they don't have a jointer or their
jointer is too small? I've ran wide board thru that had a cup in them as I
could run them cup down , get a smooth top & flip them, but it sounds to me
that this is a wide spread & normal practice?
Very astute. Yesw, "normally" one would always have a smooth side down
if following best practice of flattening one side on the jointer and
then parallel-izing and thicknessing on the planer.
1. Yep, wide boards, too wide for the jointer are one item that gets
2. Really long boards that are a hassle to joint.
3. High production with less attention to such details as parallel
In a production shop you oft time take short cuts. Also, If I get a
rough wide board and I want to keep it wide, then into the planner it
goes, as is. I am not going to smooth one side with a hand plane or
some router trick. If it was out of parallel so far that I could
notice or cupped I might concern myself. If I am breaking it down to
glue up a panel, I might use one face as the reference for all TS
cuts, but generally you just run with it assuming it is parallel
No, I wouldn't do this for a fine, single piece of furniture but I
would crank out 50 drawer fronts or a bunch of stick for face frames,
So assuming you will normally use proper technique, lock those bed
rollers in at the low end of the suggested setting to minimize the
snipe and you will be fine.
Hope you fell better. I have been avoiding any colds or flus this
season, even with the sickening snuffing and glurping sounds of the
guy I an working near for the past few weeks. I wish he would just
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.