OK, yet another pin routing thread. I figured I wouldn't hijack
woodworkers thread again.
So I had a chance to use my pin router this weekend, and it worked
great. I used it to make a relief for a house-number sign. It took
almost no time at all (carving the molds took some time, but once I
had those the sign itself was pretty fast). I switched out the router
bit at the end to a half-round to create some nice bevels, and used a
half-round chisel to distress the backdrop.
Check out the pics! ( http://www.ulvr.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num 83824903
That worked so well I decided to try it out for inlay, and that's
where I ran into issues. The problem was/is in creating a inverse
mold. I want to be able create accurate inverse molds quickly and
easily. So what I tried was plaster of paris. I created a shallow
dish, and poured the plaster around my original mold (OK, it was a
copy of my original mold, as I didn't want to wreck the original).
The hope was to remove the original, and have an absolute perfect
inverse. The problem was that the plaster of paris cracked when I was
lifting the original. I had sprayed my original with WD-40 before
trying this, but I don't think that was good enough. Does anyone have
any ideas on how to make this work? If I can get past this hurdle
then I should be able to do very accurate, and very nice looking
inlay, in very little time.
As far as the pin router goes, if anyone is interested, I created it
with MDF which is glued together (I tried putting some screws in, but
it seems that screws and MDF don't mix very well...). I used an arm
configuration as that would allow me to use bigger pieces. As you can
see from the pictures, it's simply clamped to the router table... No
bolts required. After playing with it, it seems that that's good
enough for what I was doing (cutting 1/4" cedar). It will shift if
you push it to hard though, but using the pin router doesn't seem to
do that. I have a detachable pin-holder, which holds either a 1/2"
or 1/4" pin. I can make another one if required. In the picture you
see the 1/2" pin. I cut the 1/2" bin a bit short so I tapped the end
and added a bolt, to give me a grip when raising/lowering the pin.
The pin can slide up or down if I loosen the wing nuts on the pin
holder. I have about 1/4mm play in any direction with a pound of
force, which I think is awesome. The whole thing took about an hour
plus glue-drying time to put together (but some of that time was spent
If I can figure out how to make inverse molds, I'm thinking of making
a bridge configuration for the pin router. That would likely have
even less play, and would not have the misalignment risks. But I
still need to figure out how to make the inverse molds.