I missed your joke the first time around! Ha ha ha!!! : )
I assume a wire brush will help tidy up, down the road--maybe a small one on my rotary tool.
I gotta get my nose to the drywall, to get that job done!
What is a good filler to use if I might decide I wish to change my design (because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of that at the time (that's the sort of thing that happens when I don't "plan"). I suspect wood putty would be difficult to remove. What would you think? Drywall compound? Start over? : )
Bill
(because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of that at the ti= me (that's the sort of thing that happens when I don't "plan"). I suspect w= ood putty would be difficult to remove. What would you think? Drywall compo= und? Start over? : ) Bill
Any reasonable filler that's easy to work. Drywall compound will work, at = least for a while. If it ever fell out, it would be easy to replace. Famo= wood filler comes to mind, also.
I had wondered if there was something preventing the old molding from fitti= ng flush to the wall. I would have guessed extruded caulking, dried before= the molding was installed. That's one reason, though not mentioned, why I= suggested looking under the threshold.
Sonny
Okay, thank you. I wrote that down.
You were right--the plywood protruded abit.
I would have guessed extruded caulking,
Yes, I mentioned I cut away a 1/2" strip, up to 5/16" deep. That will have virtually no affect on my molding.
If I had faced that job 3 years ago, I would have had to do it with a box-cutter or a pocket knife (which, admittedly, would have worked)...
I enjoyed putting the Montgomery Wards Rebate Plane back into action! I'll remember that longer than I'll remember the trim. I've kept it on my bookshelf, about 6 feet from me. And now it's prepared for it's next job! : ) I should probably review a manual so I can properly use the "slicer" part which evidently helps sever the shavings on the inside edge of the cut. Thank you for sharing your expertise about the threshold!
Bill
----------------------------------- Laminating epoxy thickened with micro-balloons.
Lew
I'd caulk the screws in (easily removable) or start over with a thinner moulding.
Otherwise, I hide screws with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It sands easily and doesn't seem to come out, even with exterior use like deck railings which are painted.
-- All of us want to do well. But if we do not do good, too, then doing well will never be enough. -- Anna Quindlen
Lew's idea (Epoxy with microballs) made me think of putting a little barrier down (like cotton and plastic) over my square head screws and putting wood putty on top. That way the screw heads would be more accessible.
By the way, I found that drywall crack you may have noticed in the picture, and I taped it! I was hoping it was just a piece of dust on the lens... You could have just pointed it out (and I would have told you it was just dust on the lens)!
-- hey Bill I suggest that you consult or ask tips to some great interior designers in town to help you with the pimping.
What do think they would suggest? My door not flashy enough for you? BTW, the dirt underneath it is Not from people going up the stair, it's from everyone (mostly me, these days) waiting on the other party to get ready to go. Anyway it will be painted someday soon. I did a day of drywall work today and will do another tomorrow. Anyone notice 5 gal. pail of setting compound get thinner near the bottom? I'm not sure if it's just my imagination. I've got some tape that looks like it didn't get set very well. I'm not planning to use any more of it unless I run out of "Easy Sand".
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.