I've got a set of chairs that came factory polyurathaned. Looks like it was applied with a hose.
I'd like to paint them, will scuffing up the poly with steel-wool be enough for mechanical adhesion? I may also employ a sanding sponge too see if that works any better.Any other suggestions?
-Jeff
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:23:29 -0700, John wrote (in article ):
I reused some butt-ugly stained and poly door trim. I scuffed it with #0 wool and primed it with some good latex primer. Not the same abuse as a chair gets but so far so good....
-Bruce
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:23:29 -0500, the inscrutable "John" spake:
You say that as if it were something odd. I wouldn't be at all surprised (someday very soon) to hear a salescritter say "Yes, the runs are there to simulate grain and the dirt is there to simulate splinters from real wood."
Strip using a methylene chloride stripper (aircraft-strength) and use something less plasticky. Nothing sticks well to poly, including other coats of poly, and especially paint. You'd expect less from plastic?
----------------------------------------------------------------- When I die, I'm leaving my body to science fiction. --Steven Wright ----------------------------
First item is the condition of the current finish. You need to either sand/scrape it down to a smooth and fully scuffed finish, or strip it. It's also (very) hard to be sure that it's really poly, but that's not too important. If your sanding gives you a smooth base, that's fine. You may also want to use some thin strips or sanding rope to get the detail.
Next is the type of paint you're using. If you apply a thin coat of dewaxed shellac first, than nearly anything can be used. Most paint from spray cans will also adhere pretty well, due to the solvents used. It's also best to paint in two coats, with the first one very light.
GerryG
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