Outlets High on the Wall

Install outlets where you need them. My garage didn't have built in lights when I bought it, it had overhead outlets into which were plugged corded fluorescent fixtures. Made it easy to improve the lighting.

Extension cords are a temporary measure. Set things up so that you won't need them for anything that is going to be in place long-term.

Perhaps consider placing them at your maximum reach so you can use them for the random extension cord or tool when you want the cord to come from up high. They'd still be high enough for any ceiling mounted device like your air cleaner.

If you never need/use them it was a waste if time and money. If you DO need them, it's "a stroke of Genius" That "stroke of genius" seldom comes at such a low cost - so GO FOR IT!!!

Whatever works for you but just remember not to put too many outlets on one circuit. Up to 8 on 15 amps and 10 on 20 amp.

And it might be a good idea to put the high up outlets on their own circuit or two. Later on you might want to be able to switch them.

This is exactly what I plan. I have several fluorescent lights in my garage for general illumination. I have one directly over my work bench. It currently is plug into a power strip that can be switched on or off. When I use the work bench I turn the power switch on to provide additional illumination on the work bench. The additional light fixture is not normally on, wasting energy.

Game plan is to put an outlet about 18" from the ceiling. The outlet would be controlled with a dual outlet/switch in an exiting box that now only has a dual outlet. If I expand my work area, I would consider additional area lights over the various tools, that could be turned on or off as I use the tool.

The power strip will not disappear as it also has my drill press, belt sander, and band saw plugged into it. Since there is only me I can only use one at a time, so amp load while important does not come into question. I also like the redundancy of two switches on my tools.

Over 48" leaves you room for a piece of plywood, and that's not too far from the ceiling. Most of mine are at that level.

Why would a switched receptacle require it's own circuit? If you are thinking about the ease of adding the switch for the entire circuit, sure. Then again, what are the odds of all of these up-high receptacles ever becoming a single switched circuit vs. adding switches for individual receptacles? Most likely case would be a split receptacle or two.

Side note: I put the lights in my shop are on their own circuit. Overkill, perhaps, but I'll never be left in the dark if a machine trips a breaker.

Clare Snyder wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

That's a really good argument! I think I will install those outlets up high.

Puckdropper

DerbyDad03 wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Good point, I'll have to figure out what the top of my reach is and set the high outlets there. I may still need to create vertical separation between the floor and my shoe soles, but that's only because I have something in the way.

Puckdropper

J. Clarke wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

That's not a bad idea. If I do the low outlets on one circuit, the mediums on another, and the highs on a third I should be able to have a load spread out and a predictable way to tell when I'm using a different breaker.

Puckdorpper

Hawk wrote in news:rhcam4$oma$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Does residential have limits on numbers of outlets on a circuit? I thought that it didn't.

At any rate, those are good numbers to keep in mind.

Puckdropper

In a shop, I think you don't want too many devices on the same run. I think it goes without saying that you should be running 20 amp circuits (12 gauge wire), doesn't it? Use 15 amp for the lighting.

Why the limit? I don't think there is anything in NEC to that effect. If the wiring is the right size and has a proper breaker, the circuit is protected regardless of how many outlets are on the circuit.

I used 20 amp even for lighting. I love lots of light.

When I had my shop wired, I put in some high outlets on the wall and scatte red throughout the ceiling. Later I added two Rockler cord reels mounted on the ceiling. One is on the left half of the shop and the other on the rig ht side of the shop. Each is about 10 feet from the nearest wall. Those cor d reels get used more than any of my dedicated outlets. I recommend the Ro ckler reels because they are 12 gauge wiring.

Bob

If you know where the stationary tools are going to go, either put a separate circuit for each tool or if you are going to be the only one using the shop, a separate circuit for all the tools. Be sure to put in 220 for any tools that can handle it.

I think the height issue is up to you and good thoughts...a lot of opinions on circuits, though, that I don't all agree with.

Unless it is a commercial shop which seems highly unlikely in a garage shop, the idea of separate circuit for every stationary tool is way overboard...I went ahead and pulled #10, but all 240V and 120V tool outlets are on single circuits.

What you want to be certain of is that wiring circuit for lighting is (a) not tripped by a tool outlet on the same circuit and (b) not all lighting is on one circuit.

Particularly so if happen to be using the tablesaw or shaper and a bulb pops and trips a breaker...not good to all of a sudden be in the dark with a power tool running. Not likely and less so as incandescent bulbs have almost disappeared, but think ahead just in case.

They don't, of course. Adding a switch is relatively straightforward, even after the fact.

I just added some outlets in a narrow garage, at about 6' 6" (just below the short ceiling). A duplex receptacle with the hot side cut - the top outlet is switched, the bottom is unswitched; there's one every 10 feet along the long side of the (40' long) garage, three #12 THHN conductors in 1/2 EMT, single 20A circuit.