Santa Sweetie got me a new INCRA 1000HD for Christmas. I have been fightin= g the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impre= ssed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook sugge= sts a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar = material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, = with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear=
the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out. Think of clampling a 1/2" dowel onto your bench, and cutting it 6 inches off the side of your bench with a hand saw. Then cut it again 1/4" off the side of the bench. Do you think the cuts will be the same?
the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.
I haven't, but I should have. I've nicked the fence a number of times. Aluminum cuts good. :-(
the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.
Same here, I have cut through mine when I forgot to move it back while mitering.
I have used a sacrificial fence on it at times. Mostly not since it interferes with the dual stops.
Only when I need to be absolutely tearout free or too small a piece to cut and needs to be supported on both sides, so I can use something to hold one side while cutting, like a pencil w/eraser to hold .
No you don't need it. But the hardware is handy when you do need to make one.
ing the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am imp= ressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook sug= gests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or simila= r material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering= , with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling te= ar-out.
I went ahead a made an MDF fence after I posted the message. I thought it = would be more difficult to get on and off; but the the plate nuts make remo= val simple and quick. No big deal. I'll probably make a couple more to ke= ep in reserve.
the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.
Believe me, adding that aux fence does not prevent that! DAMHIKT
I religiously use and depend on the stop/scale. I also keep my aluminum fence relatively close to the blade so that the stop can be easily calibrated. If you have all this set up with the fence close to the blade and change the angle setting to say 45 degrees the fence will be in the pat of the blade. I know this from experience. :~(
IMHO easier to forget this using an aux fence because you no longer care if you cut through the fence, aux fence that is, you/I more easily forget about the primary aluminum fence.
That said I would not use the 1000HD with out an aux fence. Way too many advantages to using with vs. with out. an advantage in particular is using it to prevent tear out on the back side of a dado cut.
the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.
would be more difficult to get on and off; but the the plate nuts make removal simple and quick. No big deal. I'll probably make a couple more to keep in reserve.
I was also very concerned with using the aux fence especially with changing from one miter slot to the other miter slot. Not really a problem at all.
Yes it does. I manufactured two aluminum scales from a 60" scale last year and my miter saw didn't even slow down. I stupidly laid the scale to the saw and then later hefted a 2x4 on the saw for a quick cut. Cut quick!
using the gauge quite a bit. OR..... you can read the owners manual. :0)
You read instructions???
I think I had read them, but really forgot. And quite honestly with the carriage centered, you don't see the other channel. So while I didn't originally start out using the subfence, when I needed it, I did not know that it could be moved to another location. Now that Leon has enlightened me I do feel stupid, but have mounted it now since it's just as easy to use. Wish I knew that earlier.
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