OT - Help with chainsaw.... Plus

[Sonny]

New Stihl chainsaw model MS 250. Used once before.

Second use - cutting 12" diameter creosote telephone poles. Made 8 cuts, then saw stopped working properly. Saw starts, runs ok, but once you pull the trigger it bogs down, as if not getting gas. Fuel filter seems clean, can't detect any fuel hose kinks. I removed the carburetor and blew it ou t, as best I thought. I suspect something (trash?) is blocking the fuel, b ut I can't figure out what or where. Service center estimates $80 - $100 to repair. A new carb is $12 + shipping from Amazon..... I'm tempted to c hance replacing the carb at this price.

I have no idea if cutting creosote material, itself, is relative to the pro blem.

Any clues as to what needs to be done to get my saw back up and running pro perly? I'm not very mechanically/small engine inclined, so I'm not comfort able delving into the carb too deeply, if that may be the problem, but I ma y try cleaning it, if need be... not sure how.

Project: Repairing the old homestead's barn.... it's in bad shape, from ne glect. Right side overhang is falling down, as is the back of the barn. The sills are termite eaten and we're replacing/repairing what we can, with in reason.... not a total remodel, but just enough to make things somewhat usable for moderate storage and/or out of the weather. The cut telephone poles will be the new sills.

Some pics -

Removed the chimney from the old house, patched up the wall & roof, there. And some barn pics.

Received the Chestnut trees from Willis Orchards. Hope to get them plante d this coming week.

Sonny

[Michael]

Sorry to hear that Sonny. It sounds like it should still be under warranty. One thing to check. Is the chain unlocked? You have to pull back on the bl ade guard to release it if it?s been locked for some reason

[Ed Pawlowski]

I'd take the chain off and clean everything. I'm wondering if the creosote has it gummed up

[shiggins]

Have you checked the spark screen? Its a screen that looks like the muffler gasket when assembled. I've had 2 engines that ran properly until warmed ( operated for about 30 minutes). Then they would start but could not open the throttle. Removed the plate. Replaced the muffler. Ran like new. In locales that have prominent big brother activity its illegal to operate the engine w/o the screen.

Steve

[John McGaw]

Not familiar with that model but if it anything like my old dependable Stihl you can remove the chain and the clutch/drive quite easily. Do that and try running it again. If it revs freely like that then the problem is drag in the chain somewhere. It could be something as sneaky as gunk from the poles getting into the chain slot in the bar and bogging it down. (This might also suggest that the bar lubrication system isn't working properly.) I've heard of such drag happening when cutting a lot of sappy pine. The bar nosepiece needs to be lubricated frequently too (that is what the little holes up there are for and everyone should have the odd little grease that fits there).

[Leon]

Is the chain break engaged? This has happened to me.

[Unquestionably Confused]

The only reason that I mention this, Sonny, is that you didn't: Is the chain properly adjusted and the chain oiler full?

[Sonny]

Break is not engaged. Chain spins freely when running, either when initial ly choked to start and a bit off choke. Idles ok. When I pull the trigg er it'll start to run, but immediately hesitates, release the trigger, back to idle ok somewhat, but as soon as I engage the trigger, the motor hesita tes, then shuts off.

It runs, chain spins fine. The spark arrester (screen on muffler) is clean . I removed the fuel filter, it seemed fine, but I cleaned it anyway. I highly the carb is blocked between the fuel tank and carb, just inside the carb. I poured fuel into the air filter opening, into the carb, and it ran fine, then hesitated/stopped as before.

I'm not familiar enough with these carburetors to disassemble/assemble them properly, so I'm hesitant to disassemble. I'm leaning toward ordering a new carb. I may disassemble this one, later, maybe find the problem, then.

To the right of the air filter there is another small cylinder gadget, the tank vent. Never saw one as this before. Wasn't one on my old Stihl. It has a pin hole in its internal parts. I blew into it, very slow air flow. I might try replacing this, also. Item #17 in this diagram -

40e3-a67c/

Sonny

[Clare Snyder]

What oilmix are you using, and what fuel?

[Sonny]

I use the pre-measured oil (containers) with ethanol free gas, same as I've always used.

I'll get some carb cleaner and see how effective that is. In the meantime , I've ordered a new carb and it should be here tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'll try a new fuel filter, then a tank vent. All inexpensive part s, so I'll try that hit-or-miss approach.

Sonny

[Spalted Walt]

My guess is that it's a tiny split in the fuel line: #20

Very comman issue w/Stihl

I've had to replace the fuel line TWICE on my MS-290 since buying it new in 2000.

Carb removal is not necessary!

[Sonny]

Since the saw is new, I haven't suspected the fuel line is bad. Last night I did blow it out from the carb toward the tank, removing the fuel filter first.

Today I gave the carb a shot of cleaner. I had cleaned it with straight gas, yesterday, but that didn't help, so not sure the carb cleaner was the fix.

The saw seems to be working fine, now. I'm suspecting it was debris in the fuel line. I only ran it for 30 seconds, so a true test will come with longer use. I'm headed back to the barn work, today.

Thanks everyone.

Sonny

[Scott Lurndal]

Does the chain break regularly? Or did you mean "brake"? ...:-)

[Sonny]

Update. Used the saw yesterday, 6-8 cuts in 10" creosote logs. It repea ted the previous symptoms and eventually stopped, wouldn't even crank/run. This morning I blew the fuel line, form the carb end toward the fuel tank . Cranked right up and ran smoothly. Seems obvious debris is getting int o the line.

I don't know how debris is getting into the line so easily, if it is. The filter seems perfect and has no debris on it. I wonder if the fuel line, itself, is deteriorating on its inside, somehow, producing the debris.

More cutting is to be done, so I'll monitor the goings on.

Sonny

[Leon]

My 2 stroke blower and line trimmer will act this way. I very often, to always, have to feather the choke after it starts to get it warmed up enough to accelerate with out the choke. It acts like you describe. Especially when it is cool to cold I have to leave the choke partially engaged until thoroughly warmed up. I often have to do this even if it has set for 30 minutes and I need to restart.

AND I always use premium gasoline, Echo oil for the gas, and a gas stabilizer for the gas can. A lot of trouble but it works.

[Leon]

I should'a said brake, not break.

[Clare Snyder]

Correct - and with the "smogged" engines without adjustments on the carb the ethanol free gas is more important, because the engine runs LEANER with ethanol (due to the lower energy content of ethanolthan gasoline) meaning the choke needs to stay on longer - which is one reason I asked what fuel was being used.

[Leon]

And ethanol added to gasoline attracts moisture from the atmosphere. Eventually you end up with a puddle of water in your gas can and or fuel tank.

[Puckdropper]

Leon wrote in news:RNSdnU9Ua88AVfzBnZ2dnUU7- [e-mail]:

You ever notice how when you hang out with someone for a time you start to use their inflections?

Same thing happening here. :-)

Puckdropper