I have a wooden cart on casters on which I will have a generator. Its
weight is 1,400 lbs, and the weight of the entire stucture would be
1,600 lbs. This cart may one day be winched into a trailer on
To the front of the cart, I want to attach a lifting eye. It is a big
lifting eye with the threaded stem removed, and welded to a 1/4"
plate, which would be attached to the cart by means of four 5/16" lag
My question is, what is the optimal length of these lag screws. The
wood is regular soft wood. I assume that beyond some length, the extra
grip given by extra length is meaningless.
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I have worked with lag screws extensively and I do not feel confident that
lag screws will hold consistently any heavy load if the stress is being
applied vertically. Horizontally (to the lag screw) perhaps, but not
If the lag screws are stressed sideways, I would want at least 3 1/2" to 4"
I would suggest some kind of threaded BIG bolts, another plate on the other
side from the eye plate, and extra nuts.
I have built platforms that needed to be winched onto a trailer or truck
before. What I did was to jrill a big hole and run a bolt throough it. I
cut out a section near the middle of the bolt. I then threaded the bolt
through a big iron ring. This was sufficent for any kind of hook or other
means of attaching the cart to the cable.
Thanks indeed! That's a great tool to have around.
I'm planning something akin to what the OP is doing. I have an
unfinished room above my garage with access only to the second floor
of the house (it's where they generally put the "bonus room"). My
plan is to use if as my shop (convert it to the bonus room if I
I'm trying to think of a way to get tools and materials up there, so
was considering a hoist (what's the difference between a "hoist" and
"winch"?) with an access door down to the garage. I'd have to lift
a table saw (~600lbs.), hence the interest in this load calculator.
Hoists are for lifting, winches are for pulling.
As well as the connection, need to be sure you're attaching it to
something that can hold the load.
A FWW a couple years ago had a shop in upstairs over garage w/ the same
idea. It, of course, was designed dedicated so he designed for and
installed a full length trolley beam, but a simple block and tackle was
sufficient for lifting even larger qear. (IIRC, he had an old 20+"
jointer which would have been roughly twice your weight...
What's the difference? A winch rated for 1000lbs. has to pull with
1000lbs. force. A hoist has to pull the same force. Obviously I'm
missing something basic here.
The "attaching it to" is easy. A few 2x12s can easily support a
1000lbs, once the interface problem is solved. ;-) The floor has
to support the same load.
I thought of using something simpler since moving the tools is a
one-time (maybe two ;) thing. I figured that once I solved the
difficult problem of the tools, materials would be a piece of cake.
I also need to get a pile of plywood (flooring) and sheetrock up
there. Carrying any of this stuff through the house won't impress
SWMBO. The fallback position will be to keep the big tools in the
garage and move partially finished stuff upstairs. This doesn't
sound like a lot of fun though.
Some winches don't even have a brake on them, so when you turn it off the
line is allowed to go slack.
It might be like the distinction between a rabbet and a dado. At their
most basic, they're a groove cut in wood. They have distinct properties,
however, that make one more useful than the other in certain situations.
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
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I'm certain there are many Standards and, of course, in the US, OSHA
rules. What any are, specifically, by number I don't know; not my
field. I don't think there are requirements on the braking mechanisms
themselves, per se, only that they perform the required specified
function in a failsafe mode.
Look at the two links I posted earlier that point at a typical winch and
overhead hoist to get an idea of the difference in equipment (and note
The general definition, however, holds--winches are for pulling and
hoists are for raising.
While there are lots of folks who ignore such rules and many winches do
have brakes and locks that are designed to prevent backsliding, they
aren't intended for overhead lifting and such usage is risky at best.
It's a lesson learned in the electric utility business where lifting is
common, often complex and serious. It's no less serious for an
individual w/ a 50-lb load above them--it'll kill just as readily.
For a home shop kind of thing you mentioned, unless you have budget, I'd
go w/ the manual chain hoist myself rather than the power option.
A good block and tackle works, but isn't nearly as risk-free or convenient.
I would think there would be pointers in the literature ("meets
xyz789") but I see nothing.
I did, but the two aren't comparable for many reasons. One is a
commercial/industrial unit and the other is a homeowner's unit.
Such makes for bad comparisons.
I understood that. The difference obviously isn't the force, so I
asked specifically *what* the difference was. You've done a decent
job of explaining the difference. I only want a bit more
information ao I know what to look for (or forget the whole thing).
I wouldn't be lifting anything over my head, though wouldn't much
like to see a $2000 saw break my garage floor either. ;-)
Sounds like a RPITA to lift 10'-12'. Most I've seen don't have that
sort of lift.
I wasn't shopping for you, I simply showed two that are roughly the same
pulling power-rated mostly so you could see the characteristic
difference between the design of a winch vis a vis a hoist.
It's up to you to select what level of performance you're going to be
satisfied with, I'm merely attempting to ensure you do understand the
essential difference to avoid, hopefully, an accident down the road.
I'd stick w/ reputable vendor/manufacturer and check out the manuals. I
believe it's required for all to be compliant in the US to be legal, but
it's an area of sufficient gravity (pun intended) that I, personally,
would avoid the cheapest of Chinese knock-offs a la Harbor Freight, etc.
They may be fine, but I'm not trusting my life to one, thank you very
Actually, they're not that bad and have the facility to simply stop at
any point. I think...flip, flip, flip--ah, yes...looking at the
catalogue, Northern has up to 24' versions that I'd trust for $150 or less.
Not really if the winch doesn't failsafe on loss of power, for example.
I don't recommend it as the first choice if the intent is a 1000-lb
TS, but I don't have any real problems w/ them, either, if one is
familiar w/ their operation. Having grown up on the farm we used the
farm hay rake routinely and handled easily that much routinely but
practice makes for easier and safer usage. It was 1-inch rope and does
have reverse ratchets that work like dynamic braking on elevators if it
starts to lower too rapidly and also has locking device. It was
originally designed for use w/ horse/mule team, of course, although had
switched to tractor power by the time I was large enough to be involved.
Manually, one uses a snubbing post similar to a stationary bulldogging
post (I'm sure that's a reference you're totally familiar with... :) ).
One could (as I've already done) do the same with two hoists. Your
comparison was unhelpful (though the rest of your posts have been
quite helpful - thanks).
I've got the idea, but it still sounds dangerous. Many of these old
farm devices were.
I still haven't completely thought through this idea. You've given
me a lot to think about and safety is certainly one of my concerns.
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