Odd; Festool price display policy at Woodcraft- Baltimore

Feb 26, 2011 67 Replies

I can add one thing... there are times when either configuration works a little better, but if I were to have only ONE... it'd be a barrel grip. The barrel will rotate in your hand, 360=B0, in effect, it adds another axis.

A while ago, I was cutting out a sink hole for a drop-in sink. The back side of the cut was under the windowsill and my top-handle Milwaukee wouldn't go under the sill for me to complete the cut. My Bosch 'just' made it under the sill. Caveat: One must remember that cutting in a direction that puts the side-mounted switch (on the Bosch) between the barrel and the wall makes shutting the saw off impossible.

I can add one thing... there are times when either configuration works a little better, but if I were to have only ONE... it'd be a barrel grip. The barrel will rotate in your hand, 360°, in effect, it adds another axis.

A while ago, I was cutting out a sink hole for a drop-in sink. The back side of the cut was under the windowsill and my top-handle Milwaukee wouldn't go under the sill for me to complete the cut. My Bosch 'just' made it under the sill. Caveat: One must remember that cutting in a direction that puts the side-mounted switch (on the Bosch) between the barrel and the wall makes shutting the saw off impossible.

My preference is the top handle but mostly because when I was kid and was using my dad's barrel grip, the one with a metal exterior, the body got quite hot.

I just walked out of the shop an hour or so ago after using my Bosch top handle and wishing the whole time I'd had the barrel grip.

Odd -- we're talking about the same stores, but my perception is the reverse. Starting buying primarily at Woodcraft, now generally shop Rockler.

Woodcraft does have better depth in turning chisels (i.e., more than just Sorby), including a decent house brand.

)

KC:

When recently reviewing comments on the Bosch barrel grip, a hot hand after some use was the top complaint.

What quantifies as "some use" and how sensitive some people are to heat are impossible to determine from the reading.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Shold'a picked up one of those too. ;~)

Wow I would have thought that would have been solved years ago with the plastic bodies.

Damn ... I thought Festool was pricey.

Don't let C-less see the price of Makita 1/4" 18v impact drivers these days.

Shheeeeh ... another fifty and I coulda bought another Festool something or other. ;~)

I have yet to find it too hot to handle. It gets warm...

Over the Holidays Lowes had the Bosch 18V Impact driver and 18V drill for $200. I use the 12V more often, but the 18V sure came in handy driving some #10x4" screws.

Well, take a Shelfield marking gauge for instance. One us about $30 at Woodcraft and IIRC the same one is $43 at Rockler. Of course, each store has stock the other lacks.

How do you like it?

We (Leon and ME, Stuart) spent most of Saturday driving 1 1/4 Fastcap cabinet screws into side by side cabinets, and #10 3" Spax's into wall blocking and Leon's 12v Makita impact driver came in REAL handy.

Since I left my DeWalt onsite and needed another cordless in the shop today, I rushed out and bought the BDT141, and ordered the LXT drill driver off of Amazon to fill the gaping hole in the case.

(Damn, that boy is hard to keep up with, equipment wise)

Been walking around all afternoon looking for something to screw!

;)

Fooled YOU! I bought a BTD141 kit last year before starting a deck for a client. ;) I love it, too. The 3.2AH stacks of lithiums bring the tool up to a pound lighter than my old Bosch 23614. See, I'm not just a one-trick HF pony. ;>

Not EVEN! You can buy one Festering OR two Saurstops OR 'lebentytree other powah tools for the same price.

-- You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club. --Jack London

"Swingman" wrote

------------------ Now THAT is a ringing endorsement!

A power tool that changes you into a teenage boy.

I love it. The 12V version was an eye-opener. I'll never use a drill to drive a screw again.

I have a couple of DeWalt 18V drills that I never use. I'll likely sell them on eBay, or something. I have a lot of things that use the batteries, though.

I didn't drop the soap!

A lack of pricing is usually a bad sign if only because they want to make you go through their whole sales pitch so by the time you find out the price you're already hooked. Infomercials often use that approach.

Or they want to pester you with spam for the next year, or sell your address to seven other outfits that will spam you senseless.

Sadly so much of the public chooses to buy crap from crooks that that sometimes the good merchants have to play hardball just to keep the doors open, by which I mean they have to get slicker and more aggressive in their sales techniques (as opposed to selling crap or otherwise ripping off the customer).

I was fortunate enough for someone, don't know who, to give me a Bosch Impactor 18volt unit. I have a Makita 6 year old 12 volt impact driver and that is still the one that I reach for first. I found that the 12 volt Makita had no trouble twisting off a black 1/4" hex to 1/4" socket adapter when driving 5/16" lag bolts that were 3.5" long going into the edge of predrilled 2x's. I am not really sure how much more umph I get out of the

18 volt Bosch over the 12 volt Makita as using them side by side for the same purpose I cannot tell any difference except for run time.

I kinda thought that way but when it comes to furniture and the smaller #7 pocket hole screws and regular square drive #8 going into hard wood you can very easily split the wood if you put a little too much on it. I still prefer the drill driver for applications where too much torque might screw things up. For rough application where appearance at the screw location is not a factor the impact sees a lot of action.

Also McFeely's:

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