Yes, it's on-topic -- I'm rebuilding my dust collection system using
5" spiral pipe. As an aside, I found a manufacturer in Tucson that
builds spiral pipe and fittings and was able to get ductwork for less
than half what it would have cost to get it from either Penn State or
Oneida, even before shipping charges were added. The pipe is pretty
good, the elbows and y's leave a little to be desired in terms of fit
and finish -- they are more than slightly undersized, there is quite a
bit of silicone seal being used to fill gaps between pipe and fittings
(up to 1/16"), but I digress. ...
I'm using pop rivets to hold the fittings to the pipe and had ordered
a pop rivet tool from Penn State. The tool came with a sampler of pop-
rivets, 15 each in 4 sizes from 3/32 and up. I used up all but the
largest size and went to the blue Borg to get some more. The only thing
Lowes had was Arrow 1/8" pop rivets. Using the rivets that came with
the tool, I had nary a hiccup. First try using the Arrow brand, the
stem stuck in the tool, broken off below the guide -- I had to dis-
assemble the tool to get it loose. This particular box had what appear
to be a brassy stem (looks kind of like coated nails), vs. the silver of
the other rivet stems. I tried some from the second box of Arrow brand
I had gotten (Lowes only had one box that was all silver, the rest had
the yellowish colored stems). While these did not break off inside the
tool, the stem will only self-extract to about 1/4", I then need to use
a pliers to remove the stem the rest of the way.
My question, has anybody else had similar experiences? Or is it
possible the tool manufacturer uses a non-standard rivet, or is it more
likely that the brand I bought today uses rivet stems that are much
softer than other manufacturers use?
Sounds like you're short-stroking it. I think if you take little bites, it
mushes up the stem. Big, firm bites work much better, and the waste bit
almost always drops clear with a firm snap at the end.
I've put hundreds of Arrow pop rivets into stuff. I used a Cheapass pop
riveter for a long time, but I traded up for a swivel head model from Sears
a few years ago, and the Sears riveter is much better in every way.
The only time things usually go wrong is when I'm trying to use way too long
of a rivet for the job. I've found that the proper size usually means no
more than three strokes to the pop. More than that, and things get mushy.
One stroke probably means it's not quite long enough, and won't hold well.
Two strokes is just right.
Some pop riveting tips:
* seat the thing completely before you start to pull it in, and keep the
pressure firm and steady
* don't short stroke it... squeeze firmly and completely, then open the
handles all the way (sometimes they'll stop short of opening completely, so
you have to pull by hand)
* at the end, open the handles somewhat sharply to increase the chances of
the waste dropping out cooperatively
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
My technique did not change from the pop rivets shipped with the rivet
tool to the Arrow rivets. The Arrow rivets are taking two stroke to
pop, while the as-shipped rivets were only taking one, or slighty more
than one. The setting mandrels and rivet sizes are the same however.
I think I've been doing this, I'll make sure that is the case
I definitely have been doing this, the only time I have had issues
with not getting a full stroke is when the handle retainer clip gets
pushed up and catches the handle on the way down.
This I was definitely doing -- will make sure that I really pop them
open next time to see if any difference occurs.
What puzzles me is the different results I am getting with the two
different Arrow rivets. The steel colored setting mandrels at least
have some tendency to pop loose from the handle, the "coated" colored
mandrels remain inside the handle, the only way to get them out is to
dis-assemble -- a royal pain.
Thanks for your suggestions, they have given me some things to go try.
Turning the rivet gun over to let the shank fall out will remove the need
to cringe when it goes flying past your shoulder when the next shank breaks
loose from it's head. Something like sending your opponents croquet ball
flying, but more interesting, once.
In this case, it did not. I could not push the shank out with another
rivet, nor with anything else, it seemed to have firmly anchored itself
to the sleeve. In fact, as I was trying to push the sleeve with another
rivet, the stuck shank actually caused the rivet to separate from the
shank on the new rivet.
I had the same problem but didn't realize it until reading your post.
I had a "Pop" brand riveter that I purchased several years ago to
repair the floorboards on my old Mustang. It sat in my tool box until
recently, when I went and purchased another box of rivets for
something I was working on. I had a few break off before they should
have and a few other problems with them too. I remember thinking at
the time that I didn't recall such crappy quality rivets the previous
times I used it. BUT I had always used the same POP brand and this
time I was using the ones available at the Borg.
Next time I think I'll head over to Sears to get my rivets.
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