Newbie, making boxes, needs a place to start (2025 Update)

To follow up: I found a video on youtube where a guy builds a basic bookshelf, just a big box really, with pocket hole joints and he just screws the back on. It looks relatively easy, but of course he had the whole workshop, and he had a table saw to cut the big pieces. I think this might be my place to start, just cutting the hand holes and the big sides.

On Tue, 13 May 2014 04:44:29 -0500, SuperVHS

Really? This has to be a troll. Ok, I'll bite. You need to buy some basic power tools starting with a table saw. And, then you need to use it practice wise. Make a few boxes, small boxes, say big enough to hold a bowling ball. If you're satisfied with their construction, then come back here in a few months.

On Tue, 13 May 2014 06:29:26 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

Sure he could. But, with the aspirations he has, the tablesaw is his shortest route to what he wants to build on a decent level. Of course, that's just my opinion.

All I can go on is my own experience. I had a circular saw and various other tools when I started woodworking on a regular basis. But, it wasn't until I bought a table saw that I *really* got into cabinet making.

Asian seagoing cultures have been good at effecting what you're describing above. The Japanese have a modular type of furniture/casework called "tansu", a system of boxes which are used convey and store their personal effects on sea journeys, then, when back in port, brought back to their homes and stacked as shelves and various other furniture:

Do your own googlefu on "tansu".

Interested in this concept from a magazine article I saw some 40 years ago, I made my own "tansu" for my office about ten years ago:

As you can see, this modular concept can be as simple, or as ornate, as your desire.

Cost you a couple of bucks for the download, but at least it is something that will start you off in the right direction.

Books have been written about all the questions you ask, so it is a tough task to try to answer them all in one post.

The expertise to answer to all your questions is right here on the wRec, but it might be better if you did a bit of reading first, then come back with specific questions that weren't answered in your research.

As far as tools go, it really depends upon the room you have for a proper shop, and your budget.

A table saw was considered mandatory for doing casework, but since plunge "track/rail" saws came on the scene a few years back, you can make do quite nicely with one of those if your budget and space is limited:

One of the best ways IMO is with glue blocks. Strips of 3/4x3/4 wood - or even 1x2 - cut to length and glued and/or screwed to adjacent sides. Of course, they show when looking into he box but one can put a decorative edge on them or hide tham with a face frame glued to the front of the box and overlapping the glue blocks. __________________

See below _____________________

Yes you can but a better way is to make one in a piece of scrap and use that as a router template; that way all the hand holes will be the same, not to mention smoother. _____________________

You need a router. _____________________

Probably strong enough for your purpose. ______________________

Recess the screw heads slightly, fill, prime and paint (the whole thing) ______________________

Yes it is but you don't necessarily have to have it. If you will have considerable future use for it, consider buying one; expect to pay $500+ - $1500 for a new one.

There are other ways to cut panels...

1. Lay across saw horses and use a circular saw with a straight edge (a

1. Have them cut where you buy them. Lowes/Home Depot give you one free cut, you can often get two. Additional cuts are cheap. The roughness on the cut edges can be dressed up with a router and straight edge guide or a hand plane. You would need to plan your sizes in advance.

You do not say how big the boxes are to be nor do you say how thick the plywood is. If the boxes are 2'X 2' and you are planning on using quarter inch plywood. I would either increase the size of the plywood or add a backing post to each corner of the box. These could be of any convenient desigh.

I would also consider the corner post it the box is going to see rough use or filled with a lot of weight.

Otherwise what was said above.

SuperVHS wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

IOW, about 2 ft square. For books, you'll want 3/4 plywood

For your hand-hold, router would be indicated

Strongest would be Box Joint. But you'd need a fixture and either Router or Table Saw. You theoretically could do it by hand but that would be time intensive.

Alternately Butt Joint with glue & screws (pay attention to orientation.) I've used metal ells (on face) to add strength and decorative touch.

For books, you'll want at least 1/4" for back - 1/2 would be better. Glue and screw

Screws - use flat-head, take care in spacing and setting them and make them a decorative feature.

You'll need a circular saw and either buy or make a guide. THEN use the Table saw if you have one for the finish cuts.

A lot of people are making plyometric boxes for Crossfit these days. You can google those terms to get some ideas. Here's an example.

Thanks for the help everyone! It's given me a good idea where to go.

Lets see if I got this.

I like the idea of tansu, and those look great. These won't be that detailed but it might be something for the future.

I looked at track saws, but oh man expensive. I might start with a circular saw that I can get for cheap (but with a good blade) and make a guide myself. The cuts I can't get the shop to do anyway. If things go well and I like what I'm doing, then I'll get a table saw. Make sure I like it, but I do like making things so I don't think that'll be an issue. Btw, what blade, or type of blade, do you recommend?

Looks like I'll need a router from the start. I don't fancy carrying a bunch of books with only sanded edges. And the router template is a good idea.

I'm certainly not against buying hardware. (you should see my computer desk! hard drives, keyboards, wires all over the place.) I just don't want to waste money just in case I don't like it and drop this in a month.

Since a lot of it will be books, then heavier wood is called for. 3/4" ply for the sides, and probably 1/2" for the back. Internal bracing is pretty much out tho. Some of these books are pretty big and need all the corner space they can get. What I'll probably do is overengineer the back connection with more screws than usual. That should be strong enuf (shouldn't it?) I'm leaning toward pocket hole joints. That'll get rid of the bracing, then look strong, and for some reason I just think they're cool.

Did I catch everything? Anything else you'd like to add?

On Sat, 17 May 2014 00:47:56 -0500, SuperVHS

Combination type, carbide tipped saw blade for a table saw and a good table saw fence when you can afford it.

I started off with a contractor's table saw in the beginning. Used it as is for about five years. The two biggest noticeable upgrades after that was adding a carbide tipped saw blade and a decent aftermarket fence to it.

Can't advise you on good circular saw blade. I gave away mine a number of years ago.

SuperVHS wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Go with the 7 1/4" saw & blade. They are extremely common, and you've got options if you need it. Most saws come with a blade that will get you started. Carbide tipped is the way to go.

Saw guides are available from a couple different places as well. It's easier and nicer than making one out of wood or angle iron, as you don't have to fuss with multiple clamps.

You may still have to sand those routed edges. ;-)

When I was cutting lattice, I put a piece of cheap foam on the floor and set the blade to just barely cut through the lattice. It worked great as the pieces didn't go anywhere, and if you don't have sawhorses or a table this could be a very cheap way to get some cutting support.

Puckdropper

Take a look at the Grizzly track saws, way less expensive.

And a review which I have not read.

The absolute easiest, and strong to boot, is the lock butt joint. Its self squaring, has lot of glue surface and is easy to make. All you have to remember is that the inside if the front and back to TOWARD

The absolute easiest, and strong to boot, is the lock butt joint. Its self squaring, has lot of glue surface and is easy to make AND it can all be do ne without any blade changes.

All you have to remember is that the inside if the front and back to TOWA RD the rip fence. The "How" is simple. You simply set your fence at 1/4" and raise your blade to the material thickness, usually 3/4" (if your mate rial is thinner, adjust accordingly). Rip a 1/4 x 3/4" dado on both ends o f the front and back. Lower your blade to 3/8" and and run both ends of t he front and back through, with the INDSIDE DOWN. Finally, cut a 1/4 x 3/8 " dado in both ends of the side pieces with INSIDE DOWN. Cut your bottom panel dado and you are ready for assembly.

The absolute easiest, and strong to boot, is the lock butt joint. Its self squaring, has lot of glue surface and is easy to make AND it can all be done without any blade changes.

All you have to remember is that the inside if the front and back to TOWARD the rip fence. The "How" is simple. You simply set your fence at 1/4" and raise your blade to the material thickness, usually

--------------------------------------------- Want an arguement?

Change the subject.

A table saw, a good fence, and a quality blade.

The rest is history.

Lew