Speaking of mangled digits, I was at a friend's house a few years
back. He knew my love of woodworking and took me to the basement
to show me his shop. Along the wall was a Sears RAS and I
commented to him that while I had used mine frequently, that it
always scared me for some reason. I told him that I'd learned to
pull the truck out using my body and not my arm: I would lock my
elbow and wrist, then use the weight of my body to pull the truck
out and across the wood. I explained that this seemed to help
prevent the blade from binding and "climbing" across a thinner
He smiled and held up his left thumb, or what was left of it, to
show me he understood the issue.
New saws, Leon. I don't think they are easily adapted because of the riving
knife requirement. The fact that it is easily removed and replaced takes
away the argument that it does not work well with jigs so you leave it off
all the time. Although it still may not work with jigs. I've only seen a
couple of photos in the magazine.
Darn,,,, I was hoping you were going to say aftermarket. I have seen the
new ones, IIRC SawStop was probably the first, maybe the Powermatic 2000,
and Jet has one and Delta has the newer design on the current Unisaw.
IIRC the guards are still basically the same idea but better built, read
that as what appears to be more impressive engeneering rather than the
stamped and folded variety that came with most saws in the past. AND they
are quite easy to remove and replace.
Norm always began his show with the "use proper safety equipment" bit.
I never saw him with a guard on his TS, nor do I recall him ever
mentioning that he removed it for clarity of his demonstration.
I installed the guard on my Delta hybrid when I got it three years ago.
It was removed in the first week and hasn't been back on since.
I try to think through every cut in advance of turning on the saw,
asking myself how the sumbitch can hurt me and making sure I handle the
He mentioned it during the Table Saw series. He basically said they took
the guard off for TV clairity, but it was your choice whether to use the
guard or not. (This is from my memory. For a direct word for word
quote, contact LRod.)
I would definately use the guard if it would stay out of the way. The
trouble I have with mine is it's so fiddly to adjust it can actually make
things worse. The work piece starts to bind against the fence and guard
requiring more force to push through the blade, and we all know that's a
Plus, if I take it off for a non-through cut, there's no positive
registration to get it back where it needs to be. The design is letting
On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:36:23 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
The problem of course is that some operations can't be done with the
guard in place unless you have one of those fancy aftermarket overhead
For example, when I said I was ripping a piece of wood to 2.5", that was
somewhat simplified. What I was really doing was ripping 1/4" off of a
3" wide board. With the guard in place, the 1/4" offcut, which was what
I wanted, would have fit inside the guard and probably been chewed to
bits by the blade.
A riving knife OTOH would be very nice if there was one available for my
saw, but there isn't. I do use a splitter but that has to be removed in
order to make a cut that doesn't go all the way through.
Since my accident, I have been considering some way to suspend my guard
an inch above the table. With the strange design of my ancient Delta it
just might be doable.
Damm it's hard to type with one thumb wrapped up like a mummy. You
wouldn't believe how many times I've hit backspace to write this!
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
I believe this was mentioned before but the product at this web page
http://www.microjig.com/ is very useful in the situation you described. I
bought two of these when I got back into woodworking after a 30 year haitus
and find them to be one of the most useful safety tools in the shop. They
allow you to keep constant downward pressure on a rip cut all the way to the
completion of the cut.
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