Need idea/help to attach concave molding

[Dick Keats]

We have a quarter-round brick fireplace in the corner of our family room. I'm trying to attach concave molding to cover the ugly space between the sheetrock and brick. Thought it would be a piece of cake using 1-5/8" 18 ga. brads, but no...of course not. Silly me, thinking there would be 2x4's or something to accept the brads. I've poked around with an ice pick and I come up empty. Any thoughts about some kind of adhesive caulk or Liquid Nails or...? Any help would be appreciated. Dick in Dallas

[Steve]

"Dick Keats" wrote in news:45d8b137$0$18888$ [e-mail]:

1) Rip some ½" plywood into 1" strips. 2) Nail the strips to the wallboard surface so that the molding will just barely clear it. Try to hit the wood behind the wallboard. If you can't find it, put the nails every six inches -- that should keep the sucker in place. 3) Nail through the molding into the strips.

If you want more security, use construction adhesive to mount the strips to the wallboard. I don't do this, because I might need to take it down someday.

If you want help, let me know. I'm in Arlington, and I'm cheap; or so it says on the bathroom wall.

[Dick Keats]

Steve, I understand and thank you for your suggestion. Unfortunately I don't have the space to do this. Width of the molding is 1-5/8" with a 45 deg. bevel reducing its size on the back to 1-1/16". Another detail is that some of the molding has to adhere to a quarter-round (8 foot) brick fireplace and, of course, will want to spring back. Also, I can't think of a way to brace the molding until it sets if I were to use construction adhesive. Again, thanks, and any new/different suggestions will be appreciated. Dick in Dallas

[bridgerfafc]

lets see if I have the right picture...

the vertical fireplace surface is curved brick. it meets another surface (drywall), either vertical or horizontal, with a noticeable gap that you want to cover with molding. .......no?.........

first, the molding has to be flexible enough to make the curve without breaking. given that, any latex painter's caulking will be fine for gluing the molding to the drywall. you'll have to devise something to hold it in place while the glue dries, figure overnight. without being able to see the situation, I can't guess whether you can get a clamp or ten on somewhere, or whether you'll end up with sprung sticks wedging things into place, or whether your wife will have to stand there all night holding it in place while the glue dries.....

[O D]

You might consider hot glue. It sets up in very short order. And you can do it a few inches at a time. Just spot the glue in a few places. All this assumes no pressure to pull away.

[Steve]

"Dick Keats" wrote in news:45d8e754$0$8961$ [e-mail]:

Look at the plastic cove molding. It bends pretty well. I made an arched window for a client, and it followed the curve easily. The tough part was mitering the end to the wall. I used the stuff with fake wood grain and painted it. You might be able to find some that's just primed. I got mine at Home Depot.

Liquid Nails makes an adhesive that dries in about 10 minutes, if you want to go that way.

Of course, you can always caulk the gap if it isn't too big.