Need brand advice for squares

[David]

I just wasted a bunch of gas and time returning a Crown square that wasn't "square". Two more samples were also out of whack.

I bought that brand because one I got 3 years ago is perfect (12"). I want one with a thin blade like the Crown. Any suggestions for a source? I use the Incra Guaranteed Square, but I want a thinner type for marking wood.

Dave

[George]

Only thing that counts is square. Brand does not make them that way. Go the Borg, get a flat edge to put them against and a light to squint into and start blade to blade tests to find the one that is, and buy it.

Then don't drop it.

[David]

I looked at them today (at HD), but they don't carry anything similar in style to the Crown. I'm looking for the same style as the Crown. Sorry I didn't make that clear.

Dave

[Ba r r y]

My most used squares, in order:

Starrett 6" combo Lee Valley Saddle Lee Valley 4" double Starrett 12" combo

I use them with pencils and striking knives.

Barry

[Lew Hodgett]

The square hasn't been invented that doesn't require a little "adjustment" from time to time.

A ball peen hammer and a center punch are the tools of the "adjustment" trade.

Lew

[David]

:) I'm not taking a ball peen hammer to my Guaranteed Square! I've had it for several years and it still is "right on". So is my 12" Crown.

I saw Norm using square similar in design to the Crown but it had 3 brass diamonds inlaid. Anyone know the brand?

Dave

[Leon]

If you saw Norm use it LRod should know which one.

[Leon]

I do not know if this site qualifies for what you are looking for but these tools ate very high quality and EXPENSIVE. They have about 13 squares. That said, if you have not been to this site it will be fun for you to look at. All are precision tools including the new $1500 hand planes. I own one of their first commerative tools, a Squivel.

[David]

Thanks for the link, Leon.

That's some pricey stuff--$100 marking knives...$575 planes... (And here I thought LN was expensive.)

dave

[toolguy]

Hi Dave,

I have a couple of Lee Valley Engineer's Squares. They are not too expensive and they guarantee tolerances within 0.001" per inch. They come in a few sizes. I like them a lot. They also have some aluminum squares with the same tolerances that go as large as 12".

Neil

link:

[David]

Thanks Neil, that may be the ticket, and only $14 for the 6". I paid $19 for the one I got yesterday that was out by more than a mm in 6 inches.

Dave

[AAvK]

I have seen a LOT of negativity about Crown tools in this NG, believe me. The blade of that square you bought should, as well, be covered with some kinda black dry gunk, rather than truly blued hard spring steel. For your brass diamonds however, Joseph Marples will do the trick.

[Enoch Root]

Save yourself the money and true your current square yourself. You may not be able to get it to within 0.00063, but you should be able to get it pretty close (with a hammer.)

er

[Australopithecus scobis]

I agree with the sentiment, but point out that OP seems to be using a cabinetmaker's, rather than a carpenter's square. Wood stock and steel blade, or similar. I have trued such a square with an Incra as reference. It is far more tedious than truing a carpenter's square.

[David]

exactly. I was wondering what they were thinking when they suggested I take a hammer to a Crown style (brass, wood and steel) square. Of course you can adjust an all aluminum or steel one; I've done that myself with a framing square.

Dave

[Mike Berger]

[Mike Berger]

[Joseph Connors]

How do you adjust a try square or cabinet makers square? I have a crown square that is off. I went with an Incra - their great, but I would like to get the crown up and going. Thanks!

Austral>

[bridger]

if you trust the incra and it is bigger than the other two, use it as a reference square to true the others. if the incra isn't accurate or is smaller in either leg than the others go buy an engineer's square that is big enough. take your crowbar when you go- you'll need it.

set up a bright light, a jig to hold a small, fine sharpening stone at

90 degrees to a flad blade and a few hours worth of good music.

check the good square to the bad one with the bright light behind. mark the points of contact with sharpie. remove sharpie marks with small fine stone. repeat until the music ends, you fall asleep or you can't get light between the blades anymore.

[Joseph Connors]

Thanks! Thats about what I was figuring on having to do, I was just hoping someone had a better (magical) way.

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