I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:
Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?
Thanks in advance
Google loves you, brother:
Define decent. A guy that knows what he's doing will _improve_ on the factory sharpening job. The seller from that auction has 100% positive feedback, says he sharpened it himself and that he stands behind his work. What are you questioning about the seller or auction?
R
Just finished reading vintage saw's guide to filing. The whole process sounds like a lot of very tedious work. Thanks for the links!
Like many things it depends on whether you keep on top of it! Good steel, do it regularly, it's a few strokes of the file per tooth. Wait till the saw has got blunt and it can take a while.
Also like many things, I heard that pre-war Distons - very good, post war not so good.
Not one of Disston's best, but not a bad saw. Take a look at:
As far as sharpening, it requires a moderate amount of practice and the proper files.
I wouldn't go over $15 including the shipping for a saw I'd never seen. And $10 without shipping will buy you a good old Disston, or Atkins, or Simonds, etc. if you're willing to invest some time going to estate sales.
Me, I'm partial to the Atkins "Silver Steel" line, but they are difficult to find.
IANAE, but my observations based on my limited efforts to date.
Rip is much easier to sharpen than crosscut, IMO. I don't do much handsaw ripping except when cutting dovetails.
Circle Saw in Houston will machine sharpen your crosscut or rip saw for $3 or $4. It comes back to you sharp and with the amount of set you specify. Allow a week for the service. They engrave your name on the blade unless you tape lots of notes on it telling them NOT to engrave the saw.
(as I type this, NCIS is on and Gibbs is sharpening a handsaw with a saw vise mounted on what looks like one of Morris Dovey's tripod sawhorses and some sort of file holder/guide I did not recognize.).
Finding the right files can be a PIA. The internet ended up being my friend..
Put a handle on the file before you use it (should go without saying, but sometimes I get in a hurry and then poke a hole in my hand).
Store your sharpening files in soda straws.
Get a cheap saw at yard sales to practice on. Use it for a scraper later.
I have one D23 purchased new in 1983. It has been a good saw, and cut a lot of wood over the years. Maybe not as good as the older ones, but still a good saw..
Maybe Josh or Luigi will wade in on the topic. They have a lot more experience than I do.
Regards, Roy
OTOH, it might be worth the $12.58 (current bid plus shipping) just to cut it up and make scrapers.
Just a thought.
-Zz
A cross cut uses a tooth set - one that bends each for the kerf. On a rip saw the teeth are in-line. Little or no kerf added.
Mart> >
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:25:15 -0700 (PDT), tonyfranciozi wrote the following:
If you flatten and reset all teeth, then sharpen, your first one might take you a couple hours. The second would take you less than an hour, and the third about half an hour, once you develop the feel for it and get into the groove. It's a Zen thing.
Not all that difficult...if you have the patience.
-- It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness; poverty and wealth have both failed. -- Kin Hubbard
"tonyfranciozi" wrote
To get some idea of what is involved, Tony might like to look at
Well, it sold just a bit ago for $15.99. Did you, or someone else on the group buy it? Curious, as opposed to trollish, minds want to know.
Regards, Roy
P.S. - No whacked out psychos off their meds need to respond to this thread. Just be on your way. (hands making schooshing motions)
Why bother?
Lew
On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:10:41 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" wrote the following:
Why buy a James Swan slick when you could have a brand new 4-pc Harbor Freight chisel -set- for only $5, Lew?
-- It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness; poverty and wealth have both failed. -- Kin Hubbard
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