I wish to build myself a tv stand using MDF.
I would like to know the name of the joiner that I see in my pieces I
see for display in the retail shops.
When joining a corner the joiner has two pieces, the first piece has
locking shaft screws into the top with a long shaft that fits to the
predilled hole in the second piece that uses a circular piece which is
driven by a screw driver or alley key that locks the shaft and hence
the other piece together?
It is extremely common, but I am unable to find the name.
email@example.com formulated on Wednesday :
IMHO MDF is horrible to use, worse to look at, creates a ridiculous
amount of fine dust which is full of all sorts of awful health impacts.
A few drops of water on the edge, or a little more on the surfaces
ruins the job.
I promised mysef a few years ago that I'd never cut that crap again.
If you want to use manufactured board for your project, there is some
very nice ply available, which is stabe, durable and with a little edge
banding can look pretty good in the application you need.
Is this what you're looking for:
I'm sure you have your reasons for wanting to use MDF. Lots of
woodworks don't like working with it because it has some strength and
water issues, etc. but I have seen some nice innovative stuff done
with this material. It can be cloored or painted and even comes in
colors if you can find it.
You were looking for knock-down connectors as others have posted.
These are typically used so the item can be shipped knocked-down and
easily assembled by the buyer or so it can be disassembled when
needed. They can be a little wek and wobbly if you don't plan the
You might consider conformant screws which are made for joining
pressed material such as MDF. It takes a special drill but will be
cheaper and stronger.
On Nov 7, 1:28 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
This 'po boy' uses regular wood screws but it is mandatory that you predrill
properly; a through hole in top piece so that the screw has zero
resistance, countersink for the head and a generous pilot hole in the
receiving piece. Test drill for the pilot hole so that you strike that
happy medium of hold without causing 'bloom' at the top of the hole or
worse, a split. I prefer a thicker glue like Titebond III which seems to
have less water in it and less chance for the wood to swell. Experiment
before you do this on a project. I decided that it wasn't worth the extra
steps and, not least of all, I hated working with it.
Collectively go by the name of 'knockdown fittings'.
Caveat: knockdown fittings have very little inherent strength, particularly
when it comes to racking forces. Sheet bracing in the back of the cabinet is
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