My Ongoing Workbench Project

[Bill]

In gluing boards together to make a 30" by 7' top, a few months ago, someone (sorry, I don't recall who) suggested including a threaded steel rod to guarantee strength. I just happend to pass by some today, so I came home with a 72" piece, 3/8" in diameter. It occured to me that I could face "alignment challenges" if try to use more than 1 steel rod, especially if I drill holes that are precisely 3/8". On the other hand, the steel rod (s) may help with alighnment when gluing.

I expect to use 2 nuts on top of a washer at the end of each threaded rod and cover them for the sake of appearence.

Bottom line: Do you advise, 1, 2 or 4 threaded (29") steel rods?

Thanks, Bill

P.S. In case anyone is interested and hasn't seen them, I posted skeletal design diagrams I made with SketchUp at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking in the thread "Second SketchUp".

[Morris Dovey]

I used 3 and was happy with the result. :-D

[RicodJour]

From Google:

Google Groups Home Cannot find alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

There is no group named alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking. =95 The link you followed may be broken or misspelled. =95 Search for alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

?! Mutha%$^%$ Google.

R

[FrozenNorth]

Google doesn't carry any binary groups.

[tom]

Here's another link to something like ABPW-

DJ!

[RicodJour]

Yeah, I know, or at least I had and then I had forgotten. I had the link to the hosting site bookmarked on my other laptop but I haven't switched that stuff over.

Still, Mutha%$^%$ Google. :)

R

[RicodJour]

Thanks, Tom.

R

[SonomaProducts.com]

[Lew Hodgett]

================================== If you follow the glue-up schedule I suggested when this bench project first started, the threaded rods become a "belt and suspenders" situation.

I would not install them until after final machining at the drum sander takes place.

For this bench, rods on 18" centers would seem to be about right.

Lew

[Bill]

[Luigi Zanasi]

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything. If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.

Luigi

[Bill]

Yes, I'm going to follow the glue-up schedule you suggested Lew. The only deviation I was considering was flipping every other board side-ways so that all of the grain runs in the same direction rather than flipping them end-over-end.

I take it that "rods on 18 inch centers" means that the distance between the centers of consecutive rods is about 18"--so, 4 rods approximately equally spaced, with one near near each end. That's what I was considering.

See what you half-started? ; ) I'll surely consider other design details of the bench while I wait for spring. It should probably have a wood workers vise on the right end, at least. Or, I can just get my butt in gear designing a second bench...lol.

I've been learning about patching concrete too, and I'll be grinding concrete, plastering and painting. Then after I apply epoxy to the floor, I'll move in heavy machinery... Just a bunch of "1-day projects". In the meantime, I can find plenty to learn. I have Tage Frid's joinery book from the library, and others, and I'm still waiting on the library for the book that you recommended on boat building and joinery. There's always SketchUp too. It's about time to pack up my new antique planes for the winter as its starting to get cool here in the midwest.

Bill

[Lew Hodgett]

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything.

Agreed.

Follow my glue up schedule, cauls won't be req'd.

Lew

Luigi

[Bill]

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything. If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.

Luigi

Might they add support around the machinist's vise, an area which would be subject to some pounding?

Bill

[Bill]

Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless someone can suggest what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?

[Lew Hodgett]

This top will be your basic Sherman Tank.

I wouldn't sweat grain orientation.

A flying red horse won't see the grain orientation from a 1,000 ft.

That's why I left.

What is your part of the "Midwest"?

Lew

[Doug Winterburn]

I needed some storage for all kinds of material. I used two 1/2" threaded rods, a 4" x 4" x 8', and two 1-1/2" 6' angle irons to hang a

4' x 8' OSB platform with 3/4" angle irons to support the edges from the gar^h^h^Hshop ceiling. all kinds of crap can be stored up there much to the OverLord/SWMBO's chagrin.

- Doug

[Chris Friesen]

Personally...none. The wood will want to expand and contract with humidity changes. The steel rod won't.

I built my bench with a laminated maple slab top, no end caps, no aprons. It sits on two trestle ends. Very similar to the knockdown Holtzhapffel by Chris Schwarz.

Chris

[whit3rd]

Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project (there's a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).

If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood doesn't take glue well.

Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.

[Bill]

Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project (there's a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).

If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood doesn't take glue well.

Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.