Pitch pockets, afaik, are little deposits of sap and minerals. They, and
pin knots, are considered acceptable on fine cherry furniture; sapwood, of
course, is not.
It will definately darken much more quickly on the window end. I would be
obsessive about turning it every few days for a couple of months, and
definately wouldn't leave anything sitting on the top for a few months. A
sheet of paper sitting on the top in the sun for two days will leave a very
noticable tan line! Until the table darkens - the color will become more
stable and darken much more slowly after a few months in the sunny window.
I don't know that I agree with your statement on sapwood. Take a look at
IIRC, this piece is cherry, and I think effective use was made of the
contrast between heartwood and sapwood.
I agree with you; that piece is really nice. I've done similar things using
50% heartwood & 50% sapwood with walnut, and the contrast between the light
and dark was pleasing to me.
Around these parts, I get called on to make mostly traditional pieces, and
in those cases the sapwood wouldn't be appropriate.
Other side of the coin, a lot of folks in this area like really dark
cordovan stains on cherry. In these cases you can't see the sapwood anyway;
it stains up and looks just like the rest of the piece.
In other words, never use cherry sapwood unless you feel like it. >8^)
A Shaker table would be more likely to have round legs.
Pure Mission, would show more through tenons... even pegged ones.
The skirt could have had a slight arch to it and still be valid as
IF I had to call it anything, I would call it Metropolitan.
There are so many 'melds' of the above styles that the most important
aspect survives.. and that is simplicity. Clean lines.
Then again... Mission is in the eye of the beholder?
How did you plane/sand the top after the glue up?
Someone asked me to repair a table they had damaged with a candle by ripping
out the damaged part and putting in new boards. I declined because I had no
way of getting a perfectly flat surface afterwards; too darn big. What did
I didn't glue all eight boards at one time. I glued the inner four boards
first and the next day I glued on the two outer boards on
each side for a total of eight. So only four boards were glued at each
time. I think this dramatically simplified my glue-up. After each glue up,
I scraped then sanded. With the exception of a few divots from scraping to
long in one spot : ( she is very flat. The top rests on the aprons nicely
all the way around.
I don't think (although I am still a neophyte at this) you need a flat
surface. If all your joints are at 90 degrees, with good even clamping
pressure it should come out flat. My top during both glue-ups was resting
on bar clamps on the bottom, with bar clamps also spanning accross the top.
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