I am hugely pleased you liked it (and that it worked for you!) as it is certainly my favorite finish. When I need a go-to, bullet proof finish, that's my first choice. Never let me down yet, and I have put about 40 gallons on all manner of projects inside and out.
Honestly, I don't know what it is.
I went to my Dad's house a couple of months ago and looked at the front door he had me replace along with hardware, etc. He was an older fella then, and wanted a good finish on it, but nothing too exotic. That was about 8 years ago. It looks brand new!
I might have to rustle around the HD and find a pic to post of that one as it was an unusual grain pattern that I set on fire. You would probably get a charge out of it.
I just go through looking over your finished project and your most excellent plane. Great stuff.
What's your feeling on how it would shoot with this? (and which tip):
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have one in the box that's never been opened and would like to try it out on something non-critical, like that big POS cabinet you saw on top of that rolling cart in my garage.
Googling "Kwik Kleen" I find that there isn't an "it". They have a "fast drying polyurethane" and a "Kwick Kat" precatalyised lacquer and about 5 pages of other stuff just under "Finishes and Sealers".
Please do post some pictures of that door. I have a nice mahogany door that I recently installed that's waiting for the warmer weather for the final finish (just shellac on it for now). That Kwick Kleen stuff sounds perfect.
Since you are the one directly responsible for the beautiful finish on Steve's drum (a stretch, but work with me here!), I'm thinking there should be a free drum in it for you. Or at least a tambourine. ;)
I played drums on half of the songs on a buddies album a few years back. Then I spent a day helping with some over dubs doing percussion. On one song I played a cowbell and I did a roll in a few spots by putting a stick inside the cowbell and slapping it back and forth. My buddy and the producer were so impressed they called it "Power cow" and on the liner notes I get credit as playing "Power cow" on that song.
>> I have one in the box that's never been opened and would like to try it
I bought the 3900 Graco(Earlex) last fall and I got a chance to use it shooting latex on some deck chairs. I was amazed at how easy it was to use and to clean up. I'm heading toward lacquer this spring and can't wait....
I would think it would shoot just fine. I would use the 1.5 tip (aircap) and turn up the air a bit. With cooler weather, remember to thin more as the viscosity will be much greater now than in a couple of months.
How many impellers does that have? If it has three or more, you will be fine with just about any clear finish with a moderate amount of fussing.
Remember that finishes that are shot through an HVLP system are NOT "atomized" like the high pressure spray guns. Thin away on that stuff to get what you need.
Ideal for spraying lacquers and clear finishes (for me) is 1.4mm. In this (cool) weather though, your 1.5 will act like a 1.4. So when you write down your recipes, remember to thin much less in the summer as that 1.5 actually lets out a great deal more liquid than you would think.
Looks like a nice unit. I hope post back with your results and thoughts.
As a sidebar to the product, make sure you stir well if you buy their satin/semigloss product. Dave will get nasty with you about using a POWER stirrer (as on a drill) if you call with a semi gloss problem.
(Say Robert... how do you know that??)
Anyway, for quality's sake, he small batches this stuff in his warehouse. When he makes the semigloss/satin products, he puts the flatner on the bottom of the can and adds the clear finish in top.
When I had some problem with finish consistency, Dave knew it was my fault. (It was kind of like talking to myself, really.... ;^) ).
He quickly go to the problem of my incorrect mixing of his product before use. After opening the can I looked through the clear finish on the top, and saw the cloudy flatners on the bottom. I that the cloudiness I was seeing was the the flattening material mixed in the solution, not just sitting on the bottom of the can.
For the record, I only power stir the day before I use a product, and stick stir the day of use. Introducing air into the finish is a no-no for a host of reasons. Bubbles are only the start. Power stirring is for latex paint and grout.
Anyway, my conversation with Dave was left with his questions: "Well, if you are a professional finisher, how is it you didn't properly stir the finish before use? I clearly state that as with all finishes you should power stir on low speed for 5 minutes before mixing or using."
And the second, "how long did you say you had been doing this?"
**ouch**
Dave (owner/chief chemist) is a bit prickly, but knows his stuff frontwards, backwards and sideways and with both eyes closed. If anyone here gets a large stripping/refinishing project, they sell a stripper that is a semi gel product that will eat though epoxy paints, etch metal, and is really, really nasty. Which is good.
I bought a five of it to use on a 4' x 7' wood door to a large commercial facility that had literally about 8 or more coats of urethane over the original custom finish. And the original finish was actually a floor finishing product that was applied here locally by a door company. It is good stuff.
But Dave's stripper took 90% of it off in the very first pass, and the rest of it in a quick reapplication.
I don't do near the business with him I used to, but I doubt I will ever lose his number.
Still the same problem. You are asking the veneer to slip laterally as the glue squeezes out. Ever try to coil up a roll of aluminum flashing, to make the roll smaller? You have to coil the inside before you can get the outside to get smaller. You can not pull on the outside layer to get it tighter. It just does not work.
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