Sure, that'll do. I have a granite plate with a height gauge always handy so I use that. A flat spacer can be used to space the blade off the surface enough to clear the teeth and a feeler gauge used to record the offset (to be subtracted from the measured height). This would allow more pressure to be applied, but a PITA in general.
If you over do it. I just press enough to insure the shims and blades are in contact. Doesn't take much.
The teeth are wider
Many ways to do it. The main thing is you can stack the blades off the saw and not have to deal with the arbor access issues most saws have.
For the organized people among us, one can always keep a record of the chipper/shim combos used for a particular cut width. Need a cut 0.010" under your record of a perfect 0.750"?, just subtract a 0.010" shim.
My biggest gripe is having the shims drop down into the acme thread grove when trying to set up a blade. I've tried scotch tape over the threads but the blade fit to the arbor is too close for the tape to survive. A glue stick works, but there has to be a better way.
-BR