I'm building a bookcase with 3/4 inch plywood. For the edges I've
bought some half round decorative moulding. Any suggestions as to how
I miter the 90 degree connection between the vertical sides of the
bookcase and the fixed horizontal shelves of the bookcase? I'll be
dadoing the shelves into the sides approximately 3/8 of an inch.
Trebor this is the trickiest mitre to do.
try to draw it out full scale so you will understand it it is quite simple
If need be write to me with you e-mail address and i will scan a sketch and
send it to you.
For your shelves you cut two 45 Degree Mitres so you have a point on the end
But it is only half as long
for your siide pieces you cut a notch , two 45 degree cuts meeting in the
center of your moulding for the point to fit into.
To do this your moulding has to be equal on both edges
Depending on the design of the moulding you can cope your shelf pieces onto
you side peice.
The visual effect is the same
It is probably much too late for this suggestion:
It is often faster and easier to hold the shelves and their moldings
slightly narrower than the sides/bulkheads. This method can keep all mold
cuts simple 90's. This method can also make adjustable shelves look good.
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
On 26 Dec 2003 16:11:26 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Trebbor) wrote:
Set the front edge of the shelves back a little, and butt the moulding
into the case sides.
Cut a tee-ed mitre, but use a slightly thinner shelf and a smaller
moulding than the case sides. It doesn't form an equal tee, but then
it doesn't look like it needs to.
Read up on classical Chinese furniture. _Lots_ of mitres in curved
Klein bottle for rent. Apply within.
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