Don't know which is faster, but am hooked on the smell of turps.
Takes me back to my youth when "Real Painters" used turps.
Back then, Sherwin Willliams was still trying to sell KemTone which
was before they introduced SuperKemTone for indoor use.
LOL... Yesterday I bought a new set of Michelin's for my Tundra from the
Toyota dealer. The tire guy took me to the parts department to see the tire
and I almost immediately leaned over to the stack of tires and gave'm a
sniff... The rubber smell is still the same after all these years. I
busted tires when I was in HS and college and eventually managed a tire
store. Coincidentally he too had done the same when in college. He
grinned and knowing what I was doing said, they still smell the same.
I think you're right on the drying time. I mostly use turpentine for
thinning and to hang my brushes in. I also agree with Lew's response
that it just plain smells better - my age is showing :-).
As "EXT" says, it is more expensive. I wouldn't use it for cleanup if I
did that a lot. But for a hobbyist like me and the uses I have for it,
I'm willing to pay a bit more for a renewable resource.
And it must be less toxic - I remember CreoTurpin cough syrup :-).
Re above - it's a joke,son. Turpentine will kill you if you drink very
much of it.
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Ok. Quite a bit of back and forth, here, so I'll recap and update.
Maybe I should have given more details in the original post.
It was purchased at Wal-Mart and I did not read the label when I
bought it... it was the Green product, by Klean Strip.
However, I would still expect it to be and perform as, otherwise,
normal (for me) mineral spirits, green or not. It shouldn't matter
what kind of mineral spirits it is, it should perform as one would
expect of MS.
I had applied stripper to a small area of my work and, when time for
clean-up, I opened the new gallon of MS and found it to be milky and
somewhat thick flowing. Despite this, I decided to use it, since, I
asssumed, it is MS (even with it being vastly different than what I
was familiar with). It did not perform as normal MS. I stopped using
it, at that moment, and stained some through a paper towel, in order
to clean up my stripper. The straining process left a thicker sludge
on the paper towel and the stained amount was still not a watery
substance, as "normal" MS is. I decided to use the stained amount,
anyway, since I needed to cleanup what I had already stripped.
It left a layered "residue" on the woodwork, which I assumed was still
some "sludge". This residue sludge was not the result of the
stripper's sludge, which I previously removed (as much as I could)
with paper towels. The MS was to be used for rinsing the remainder of
the stripper's sludge, not adding to it. I tried to remove any and
everything. After it dried, there was layered crud on the woodwork
and, to me, this crud was not the stripped & varnish residue, but was
the MS residue sludge.
I got my work piece cleaned up pretty well and inspected the liquid in
the gallon of MS. I poured half of it out and found the more I
poured, the thicker it was. There were even a few soft lumps that
poured out.... at first I thought these lumps were large bubbles. To
this point, I still hadn't reread the label to see if there was
something to explain this... MS is supposed to be MS, so I was
"reading" what the liquid was telling me, not the container's label.
I had bought 2 gallons and, without breaking the seal on the other
gallon, I shook it to see if I could determine if this other gallon
may be thick, also. I couldn't tell.
My project wasn't damaged, in any way, but I did have to do more
cleaning up, than I normally do, because of this particular gallon of
Yes, I guess it pays to read a label, but hell, MS is supposed to be
MS and act and be like MS, I would think. Maybe this Green stuff has a
shelf life..... (Is that on the label? I won't bother to reread the
label, to see.). To me, something was wrong with this gallon of MS,
at least for my purpose. The stripper's instructions for cleanup was
to use MS. There wasn't anything abnormal with the stripper, to
attribute to this issue.
I returned the Green and bought some clear. My project is coming
along nicely, now.
According to the label neither it nor any of its components are
flammable. It's supposedly 99 percent volatile but with no volatile
organic content. The MSDS says "hydrotreated light distillate".
Whatever it is, it is unlikely to bear any real resemblance to mineral
spirits and I pity the painters who are stuck by regulations with using
Hey, Osama, Los Angeles.
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 09:12:03 -0700 (PDT), the infamous Sonny
If you expect ANY green product to work as well as its chemical
counterpart, you're in for continual disappointment, Sonny.
They invariably mean a -lot- more work and they're usually not as good
in the cleaning department. Citrus strippers are one of the few
exceptions to that rule. "But you're saving the planet."
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
I like lacquer thinner to clean most everything that you would clean
with paint thinner or turpentine. Cleaning brushes used with oil paint
I use thinner and a spinner because I save the thinner in can or jar and
the finish settles to the bottom leaving mainly clear thinner for the
next use. Lacquer seems to leave the finish suspended, so I generally
don't use it for cleaning oil brushes.
But for cleaning most stuff, cleaning wax and oil off cast iron, or that
goo that covers some new cast iron tools, or glue on my disc sander,
lacquer thinner works great. I would be uncomfortable not having a
gallon of lacquer thinner in my paint cabinet. Hell, I've even used it
for thinning polyurethane for spraying... (Almost) anything paint
thinner does, lacquer thinner does better.
As far as green stuff goes, I generally shy away from anything based on
Got Change: Global Warming =====> Global Fraud!
Just checked a local H/D.
Turps = $5.96/qt; gallon price not shown but the old rule paint of
pricing that 3 qts will get you a gallon applies, which means a gallon
of turps is probably in the $15-$18 range.
Paint thinner = $8.77
Not quite 10:1, more like 2:1.
These are SoCal prices which I would expect to be higher than
Still not a bad price when used for thinning BLO.
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