Milwaukee 0234-6 Magnum 5.5 Amp 1/2-Inch Dril

Have an aunt & uncle who lived in Peru until death.

Have an uncle who was the farm mgr at White's Institute in Wabash for many years before his death.

My parents met at the Long Cliff hospital in Wabash where they both worked.

My grand parents and several uncles are buried in Logansport.

Have some cousins around Burnetsville.

There's more, those are just the ones that come quickly to mind.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett
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Should read Logansport, not Wabash.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I wish to drill an accurate 5/8" hole, about 2 inches deep, in the bottom end of a maple banjo neck to hold the dowel stick. Here are some nice pics of what I have in mind:

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already have the calf's skin for the top, the hoop, the stock to make the metal parts, some fine rasps to carve a neck, etc.

I could probably "jury-rig" something to get the job done with a hand drill, and maybe that makes cents, but I thought a drill press was probably the right tool for this job and it seems like it may be "nearly indispensible" for the peg holes [and for those on a mountain ducimer (easier project) and a violin (harder project)].

So that is an overview of my most adventuresome woodworking ideas. What type of drill press would you suggest, if any?

i appreciate all of the comments that folks have contributed to this thread. I have learned a great deal from your replies to this thread and from all of your posts during the past several years!

Thank you, Bill

Reply to
Bill

what I wanted when I upgraded a couple of months ago. I bought a Delta

17-959L, this one
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big selling feature for me was that the spindle travel is just short of 5", spindle speed could be adjusted lower than 300 rpm. The slower speeds are better for large bits. Additionally the feature that won my decision was that the table tilts left and right 90 degrees and towards you 45 degrees which makes drilling compound angles a little easier. The table has T-Slots to attach fences or hold downs easily. I got mine for about $529.
Reply to
Leon

A drill press, a carbide tipped forstner bit, and some jigs gets the job done.

He's here in SoCal maybe 30 miles from me and you're 2,000+ miles away in Indiana.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

It's a small world. I'm not working with him nor competing against him, of course. Apparently we both appreciate "folk music". I enjoy listening to and playing music from yesteryear--and I find it a very short jump to be interested in building the instruments, or tinkering with them in the case of fiddle/violin.

"Art" takes many forms, as probably most of the people in this newsgroup magazine may agree. The more I look, listen, and think, the more that I feel that art is art is art. Maybe the sameness is a result of it all being a product of the human spirit.

I seem to have drifted from the Milwaukee -234-6, so I'll stop there.

Lou, I'm in Indiana and your 2000+ miles away in SoCal--I'm rather amazed that we're having this conversation at all! If you want to have some fun, download the free "GoogleEarth" program (if you haven't already tried it).

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I'm sorry, I meant to to type Lew, Mr. Hodgett.

Reply to
Bill

How about these dessicant packets? This seems like quite a supply. Does a gram of dessicant per cubic-foot seem about right? Is there a better place to buy it--I didn't see it at Woodcraft's or Rockler's website. Sorry for all the questions.

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Reply to
Bill

Reviews of Bostik Top-Coat (sealent) at amazon.com seem to be quite mixed. Ordinary car wax seems to be a popular alternative. Well, I know a lot more than I did yesterday...

Hope everyone is protecting their garage-bound tools (from rust)! I'll keep reading!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I use plain old Johnson's Paste Wax on the cast iron surfaces of my TS, Jointer, etc. Ordinary car wax might work ok, but there's been a lot of cautionary tales about being sure there's no silicones in the wax. Never experienced it myself, but reports are, silicone transfer to the wood causes fisheye problems in the finish.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

Reply to
Tom Veatch

My only corded drill is a Bosch hammer-drill I bought

Yes, I also have a corded 3/8 Makita hammer drill. I only use it for drilling in concrete, but it would be good for a general purpose drill also, as it is speedy enough to mix paint:-) I don't use it for mixing paint because I have a corded 3/8 Sears (Dewalt) drill for that:-) I guess if I were only allowed to own one corded drill, the hammer drill would probably be it.

Reply to
Jack Stein

J. Clarke wrote: The 5378-20 (or the

I agree, 100%. If your garage is block, sooner or later you will be adding electrical boxes, wood racks and that sort of stuff and a hammer drill with good bits will be a god send.

I agree, 100%. A small cordless, a large cordless and a corded hammer drill. I'd go for the 3/8" hammer drill so you can use it to mix paint. I use corded drill for mixing paint, and drilling concrete, not much else. Cordless drills are all low rpm, and so are 1/2" drills I think.

Reply to
Jack Stein

I just went and read some of those. The 4 & 5 star reports were accurate. The 1 star I read was silly, and could only be true if the guy got hold of a can of water instead of topcote. I used wax in my old shop that had a major water problem, and it didn't work. I used a product from 3M that is no longer sold, but I think Topcote is about the same thing, but I can't test it in my old shop, but can tell you in my new shop, (less wet) it is behaving the same as the old 3m product. Anyone that says it is not slick is either lying or doing something very wrong.

I always clean my tops with lacquer thinner just before coating, to insure it is clean and dry. I don't use my shop as much as I used to, but the old 3M stuff lasted about 6 months or more with daily use of my tools, but no where near production use. Now, I use them very little, so can't tell you how durable Topcote is under heavy use, but, it is still perfect after a year of light use, no rust, still slick as sh*t!

Car wax is just wax, unless it has silicone in it. Silicone seems to help wax a lot when it comes to rust prevention and slickness. Woodworkers generally avoid it (silicone) like the plague. Johnsons wax is what many use, it has no silicone. I personally like Topcote. I never tried the other products like Boeshield T9 or Empire TopSaver and they are likely just as good as Topcote or better. For my use, I don't need anything better than Topcote.

Reply to
Jack Stein

I have only had my Unisaw for four months or so but so far Boeshield is working fine. I live in E. Alabama and the saw lives in the garage, so it's not in a very kind environment. Boeshield is not as slick as I'd like it to be, though. It also seems to take some care to keep it up. It's pretty soft (like a wax) so the miter gauge scratches through the "waxy" surface to what appears to be bare metal. I may try Topcote if I can find it somewhere (I have to buy most everything over the Internet and shipping gets to be a killer).

Reply to
keithw86

"Speedy enough for paint"???? You're not supposed to whip it.

Reply to
krw

The mixer I use needs a lot of speed. It's a flat round disk about 2" in diameter with slots/fins cut in the disk. I went on the internet to find one to show you but seems it's not made anymore. It is very old, but works really well at high speeds. Obviously there are many designs, most from what I saw don't require high speeds. I have 2 other styles of mixers but none work as well as this one. 900 rpm is too slow for this one, 2600 is fine. None of my cordless drills are fast enough for this mixer.

Reply to
Jack Stein

Most ppl don't realize small drills (< 1/4") require higher rpms, so look for a corded 1/4" drill motor. Makita makes a corded drill motor that's 1/4" chuck and variable speed to 4500rmp.

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your paint mixer shaft is larger than 1/4", you may hafta change the chuck.

nb

Reply to
notbob

You need two drills...

A 1/2" for the heavy stuff and a 3/8" for the regular stuff.

Look at the corded Makita for both.

The Makita is quite light and very powerful.

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?ID=345In fairness to the other folks, most corded drills are very similar in price and performance. I normally recommend Porter Cable but my Makita seems to be a good bit lighter.

Bill wrote:

Reply to
Pat Barber

that a corded drill will probably outlive the batteries in it's cordless cousin--but it's hard to overlook the convenience of a cordless drill. My next one will probably be a 3/8" cordless drill in the 12 to 14.4 volt range, keyless chuck.

Besides the cheap 3/8" cordless underdog I admitted to owning earlier, I also have a 35+ year old Craftsman 3/8" my dad gave me 12 years ago. I'll save up for the good 1/2" drill for when my requirments call for it.

Still waiting to close the deal on the house...the inspection didn't go as well as it could have. After that, I will buy ladders and rakes and all sorts of implements of construction!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Bill wrote: : I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the : washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe : a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).

: Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose" : household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated : "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat a : 1" screw : in a 4 by 4).

I'm coming late to this thread. I have a Milwaukee 3/8" holeshooter:

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's a fantastic drill. I would not pick the one you have, as I think the

850RPM maximum speed isn;t appropriate for a lot of household stuff.

I use the Milwaukee, and a cordless Bosch Lithium-Ion drill which is also fantastic. The combination can't be beat. The Bosch is this one:

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weighs under two pounds, and is very strong for its size. I added a keyless chuck for convenience.

-- Andy Barss

Reply to
Andrew Barss

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