I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the
washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe
a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
"convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat a
in a 4 by 4).
I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time, longer than
the battery in any battery operated model. The Milwaukee 0234-6 received
very good reviews
at amazon.com. I lack the experience to know whether this is possibly "too
much" drill. Is this a decent drill to use for simple woodworking and
household use? I noticed a reviewer faulted it for not having high enough
RPM (0-850). Is this drill much heavier than a 3/8" model? Should I
possibly choose a 3/8" drill instead because it would probably be
sufficient? For the marginal difference in the price of this tool, I'd
rather have "good" than "good enough".
Thank you for any comments/suggestions,
I think that it is a good drill for drilling large holes, deck screws
etc where a lot of torque is required. It may not be so good for
general purpose use, as it may be "too strong" and could cause you to
sprain your wrist if something binds. I use a smaller drill (Black and
Decker) for general purpose stuff. I have a similar (to what you
mention) DeWalt drill and try to use it only when really necessary. If
possible, I would have two drills, one for general drilling, and
another, stronger one like this Milwaukee, for more rare cases like
driving long deck screws, etc. If you do go that route and buy a
smaller general purpose drill, you may find that a keyless chuck is a
big time saver.
Might want to give this some more thought. I own two 14.4 volt Makita
portables, a 14.4 volt impact driver and a wired Bosch. The Bosch is
about 5-6 years old and sits in its box looking like new. One of the
Makita's looks like a well-worn stock car and the other two are
heading that way. Message-the wired drill gets to be a hassle. Always
looking for an extension cord or plug in. Also, it causes the same
problem that Ignoramus mentioned - a whole lot of torque. On
occasions when I need more time that the battery will provide; or I
need the power it usually tries to twist my wrist or slam my fingers
against an adjacent object before I remember what I'm doing. If you
are going corded, I would suggest a low end, lower powered machine.
You might not use it as much as you think.
BTW - I have owned a 1023S for about seven years and love it. Great
I have this drill. It's built like a tank, and it's quite heavy
relative to your standard cordless unit. The quality is typical
American-made Milwaukee; nearly flawless and built to last a lifetime
(and beyond). That said, I rarely use it if my cordless (14V Porter
Cable) can do the job. Unless I need to bore a hole clear through a 4x4
with a 1" auger bit (which this drill can *easily* handle) it's very
often just too much drill for the job. That's not to say I'd recommend
the 3/8" model instead; if you're going to get a corded drill don't cut
yourself short - by all means get the 1/2" model (and Amazon's current
price of $109 is a great deal). Just don't fool yourself into thinking
you're going to use it all the time.
Sounds to me like the lightweight drill you have is not enough, and if
you get this one you'll have "too much" AND "not enough". You might
first consider a good, strong, reliable 3/8" cordless drill to cover the
majority of your general purpose needs, then come back and get the 1/2"
Milwaukee later on (unless you can afford both now, then by all means!).
Others can probably do a better job of recommending a cordless; I may
be in the market for one myself pretty soon and I haven't been keeping
on what the best choices are...
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
That drill is a real "Hoss".
If you want a heavy duty 1/2" drill, consider a right angle unit.
At least that way you won't jam your wrists when that big hole saw
jams or some other large load doesn't want to cooperate.
So, that's why right angle drills are so popular with you guys.
Problem is, that right angle gear set robs a lot of power. They're
very inefficient. Besides, many 1/2" drills have large double handles
perpendicular to the drill axis just to control all that torque. My
only Mikita is a 1/2" drill motor. Got more handles than a usenet
Thank you for all of the replies to my question. They confirmed my concern
that the drill is unnecessarily powerful than I have a use for at this time,
me with other helpful information.
1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make a good
household drill, or should I avoid them?
2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
As I haven't had access to a garage in 30 years, I'm virtually starting from
scratch in power tools.
I have another question. I'll live in central Indiana and I'll have an
attached garage (brick if that matters).
Would large and small tools left in an environment like that generally be
safe from corrosion (rust)?
When I grew up near Detroit, my dad told me not to make the mistake he did
of leaving his tools (wrenches) out
in his external garage as they all became quite rusty. Of course, they were
not plated like those you
would buy today.
Will I need to do something "extra" to protect a tool like a table saw or a
drill from corrosion? Or should I leave
the drills, and maybe especially the batteries, in the house?
Thank you for any comments,
S&R may get back to where they were 60 years ago, but why wait?
Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt all have decent equipment at a fair price.
Somewhere along 24 (Peru, Wabash, Logansport)?
Properly stored tools are not a problem; however, I'd keep batteries
Winter weather is low humidity, so store up off the ground in
containers that won't sweat.
Cast iron surfaces, T/S, drill press, etc, need to be coated and then
DO NOT store things on top of these surfaces.
Lew, I live closer to Indianapolis. Thank you for your suggestions! After
I think I'll be storing my smaller tools in sealed plastic containers
milk crates or plastic shelves.
I wish to thank all of you for the tool suggestions too--I've got a lot of
cutting to do! I'll start off with a few bird feeders (which is certain to
wife) and work towards a few luthery (instrument) projects I've been reading
about for a few years.
The current owner of the house has truly the biggest (machinists) vise I
seen, bolted to a workbench (maybe it's for working on his RV?). I just
hope that he
leaves the bench!
How about these dessicant packets? This seems like quite a supply. Does a
gram of dessicant per cubic-foot seem about right? Is there a better place
to buy it--I didn't see it at Woodcraft's or Rockler's website. Sorry for
all the questions.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)45045328&sr=8-8
Reviews of Bostik Top-Coat (sealent) at amazon.com seem to be quite mixed.
Ordinary car wax seems to be a popular alternative. Well, I know a lot more
than I did yesterday...
Hope everyone is protecting their garage-bound tools (from rust)!
I'll keep reading!
I use plain old Johnson's Paste Wax on the cast iron surfaces of my
TS, Jointer, etc. Ordinary car wax might work ok, but there's been a
lot of cautionary tales about being sure there's no silicones in the
wax. Never experienced it myself, but reports are, silicone transfer
to the wood causes fisheye problems in the finish.
I just went and read some of those. The 4 & 5 star reports were
accurate. The 1 star I read was silly, and could only be true if the
guy got hold of a can of water instead of topcote. I used wax in my old
shop that had a major water problem, and it didn't work. I used a
product from 3M that is no longer sold, but I think Topcote is about the
same thing, but I can't test it in my old shop, but can tell you in my
new shop, (less wet) it is behaving the same as the old 3m product.
Anyone that says it is not slick is either lying or doing something very
I always clean my tops with lacquer thinner just before coating, to
insure it is clean and dry. I don't use my shop as much as I used to,
but the old 3M stuff lasted about 6 months or more with daily use of my
tools, but no where near production use. Now, I use them very little,
so can't tell you how durable Topcote is under heavy use, but, it is
still perfect after a year of light use, no rust, still slick as sh*t!
Car wax is just wax, unless it has silicone in it. Silicone seems to
help wax a lot when it comes to rust prevention and slickness.
Woodworkers generally avoid it (silicone) like the plague. Johnsons wax
is what many use, it has no silicone. I personally like Topcote. I
never tried the other products like Boeshield T9 or Empire TopSaver and
they are likely just as good as Topcote or better. For my use, I don't
need anything better than Topcote.
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I have only had my Unisaw for four months or so but so far Boeshield
is working fine. I live in E. Alabama and the saw lives in the
garage, so it's not in a very kind environment. Boeshield is not as
slick as I'd like it to be, though. It also seems to take some care
to keep it up. It's pretty soft (like a wax) so the miter gauge
scratches through the "waxy" surface to what appears to be bare
metal. I may try Topcote if I can find it somewhere (I have to buy
most everything over the Internet and shipping gets to be a
Have an aunt & uncle who lived in Peru until death.
Have an uncle who was the farm mgr at White's Institute in Wabash for
many years before his death.
My parents met at the Long Cliff hospital in Wabash where they both
My grand parents and several uncles are buried in Logansport.
Have some cousins around Burnetsville.
There's more, those are just the ones that come quickly to mind.
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