I laid my border around the (yet to be installed)cooktop island in a
herringbone pattern, working inward...there are 10 rows of 3 1/4" red
oak, with cherry on the outside rows. I did a beautiful job, except I
screwed up the layout, and now have to tear it all up and re-do it
(penance for my stupidity)...I know it would bother me forever if I
don't fix it.
there is space in the middle from which to start working...Also, I had
cut slots in the ends of all the runs to lock them into the tongues of
the preceeding row...
The method I will try is to pry the boards up gently with a gorilla bar,
and sawzall the nails from underneath, then work them out of the tongues
of the row behind. I tried using a palm nailer with a punch to set the
nails, but it bounced around too much. Is it rediculous to think I can
save the flooring and re-use it? Is there a better method of
all advice considered and appreciated...
don't know how well this will work on a herringbone, but I usually cut a long
wedge out of a 2x4, about a foot or two long, and drive it under the boards I
want to remove, from the tongue, end.....as I drive it under the boards, with a
sledge hammer, they pop up pretty well...
then just bend the nails over, and re-lay them...
of course, this is when they are installed with either finish nails, or
also will work with staples....you didn't mention what kind of fasteners you
used, but I'm assuming that you didn't use cut nails, as they would be
impossible to sawzall thru....
with a herring bone, I should think you would have to attack the pattern twice,
at the same time, 90 to each other, but then, sisnce you've also tongued them
at each end joint, you might be in for long battle....let me know how this
thanks for the reply....I came up with the same idea last night; I used
long wedges to get the carpet underlayment up before I put down the
hardwood ...I used senco L-head barbed cleats, btw...
I have started the removal, and it is going smoothly, with no damage to
about 90% of the boards. I cut about 25 wedges out of yellow pine 2by,
and have been driving them under the tongue edge of the runs, and the 90
degree corners simultaneously. when the boards are loosened I can place
a slim prybar in the crack on the groove side and tap the board out of
the tongue behind it. I then tap the nails thru from the back, and pull
them with nippers using the tongue for leverage, so the edge stays
clean. As I said, it is working well, and I saved almost all the wood
If I had made a similar mistake in a client's houses I would have had to
redo it, so I might as well do the same for my own house...if I can
figure out how to post pictures, I'll do that...
thanks for the suggestions..
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.