ASCII and ye shall receive ... scooted my office chair around the corner
in the last five minutes and took these with my trusty iPhone, which
does NOT do them justice:
I really need to get a good camera, but the damned phone is just too
(I know, I know ... violated one of your pet peeves by not holding the
phone horizontal, but live with it) ;)
Yes, that appears to be the stuff I'm talking about. It looks like
joined boards... and it matches much better than just about every mass
produced raised panel I've ever seen. Take luck out of the equation, and
none of them would match.
Tell me about it.
The camera on my phone is better quality than any stand-alone camera
we've ever bought.
No, no, grandpa. That's for video. Take your stills however you want--
whatever best frames the subject. Most people don't realize that their
phones shoot video in 16:9 aspect ratio, HD. Then they get pissed at
their phones for taking such a "skinny video." :-)
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I've commented before on the sideboard, Karl...I've got plans for
something very similar to replace the panels on the one builtin in the
dining room here at some point...at that point we'll remove the '80s
wainscot paneling and carpet and strip the wide woodwork back and go
back to the 1" T&G pine flooring as well...
Lame might have been a tad strong, but I said it, and I think it. I'm
not a fan of anything Shaker, or Mission for that matter. It all looks
like grade school shop class to me.
I rarely see flat panels that I like in doors. Have you seen book
matched solid wood raised panel doors? There a million styles, all
better than flat ply panel.
I like them, but as you said, it's a matter of taste. I just built a
four door four drawer shop cabinet this week that has plywood panel
doors, shaker stile... Yuck! Flat plywood panels are quick and dirty
imo. I thought a while before going with the plywood, and did it mainly
because I had the material on hand, but still had to keep telling myself
it's just for a shop.
I've noticed on TV white painted wood is back in style, I still like
wood, but admit 40 years ago I liked dark wood, and today like lighter
stuff. I doubt I'll ever like plywood flat panels in doors other than
laundry or shop, nor shaker stuff, nor mission stuff. Taste differs for
Structurally, plywood panels are the way to go, period. Solid wood
raised panels are for looks only. If you prefer the looks of flat
plywood panels, you are in luck, they are super simple to make, cheaper
and structurally superior to solid wood panels.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
I wasn't saying that I wasn't going to use his suggested process
because my doors are different sizes, I was saying that I can't make
"only a couple or three different sizes" because I have at least 11
very different sizes of openings. The uppers on the left of the sink
are all one size - 3 doors, all left hinged with a space between each
door. On the right of the sink, there are 2 right hinged doors that
are a different width than the 3 on the left.
At a right angle to them is a pair of center opening doors that are a
different width again. Then there's the short door above the tall door
making up a floor floor to ceiling unit. Then there's a different
sized (height and width) single tall door.
Same situation with the base cabinets - 9 doors, 5 different widths, 2
That's a fine idea, but just not practical in my case. It's not really
custom fitting each door individually, it's just the way the stick
built cabinets are laid out. The openings aren't just a "bit off"
they're totally different sizes based on the design.
There are a couple of sets of 2 and 3 that match, but there are a
number a single sizes also. That's just how it is.
Indeed...just a few comments/amplification on my style/preferences...
I rarely _do_ use either assuming I have wide-enough stock that I have
sufficient length against the fence to have a stable bearing surface
throughout the operation. By doing it that way having squared the ends
first one isn't:
a) fighting two separate reference planes (the fence and a sled/gauge
for dominance in alignment, and
b) taking the time to ensure that if a) the two are square to each other
and the material is correctly positioned, etc., ...
It's all in promoting efficiency by dispensing w/ what isn't needed and
simplifying the operations to the minimum.
I _may_ use a small block if the stock material is particularly prone to
severe splitting, but in general it isn't really needed as the next
operation will clean up the edge automagically anyway. And, it's only
an issue on the first pass anyway as once the end is coped they're all
done. So, unless your stock is just precisely wide enough that you lose
a whole piece, you can just make a cleanup pass over the jointer anyway
if desired/needed...that's quicker than clamping a piece to the stock or
having to handle the two pieces together (or at least it's the way I've
become accustomed to working... :) )
W/ a piece as wide as the 8" stock I mentioned previously, I am
perfectly comfortable using it freehand against the fence in either
direction--coping the ends or sticking the edges. Then again, I've been
running a shaper for 40-some years now, and there _is_ a certain
learning of technique w/ time... :)
The first freehand shaping against a pattern was, at that time, a
pucker-factor experience, indeed, but now it is routine so familiarity
does help and having had some instruction from both formal classroom
shop as well as some of the older guys w/ the industrial experience
along the way certainly didn't hurt.
On Wednesday, December 12, 2012 12:44:45 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
You need to learn about a "Coping Sled" to cut the rail ends. You can build them or buy them. I built one from a plan in a magazine a few years back and it is my pride and joy. Thing is bullet proof and a real workhorse. If I can locate the plans I'll post a link.
That's a basic 25,000 RPM machine.
Max diameter bit at that RPM is about 1" dia.
Bit manufacturers include the MAX RPM with every bit they sell.
If you plan on doing raised panel doors which use about a 3" Dia
Operating that bit at 25,000 RPM is a disaster waiting to happen.
You will need a 3+HP machine operating at 7-8,000 RPM.
No raised panel doors, PC690 should handle it.
Make flat panel doors and you can do everything on a T/S,
no router needed.
I have a related question. I have a Dewalt 2 1/4 HP router (Model 618)
which will do 8000 RPM (and faster, of course).
Can I use it in a table with a 3" diameter bit to cut a "raised panel"
in Cherry wood? I only need to make 2-4 panels, so I hope this is
workable. I assume my "luck" will be better if I only cut 1/8" or less
at a time. Is that about right?
Here in an example of what I was looking at:
On the safety and tips tab at the bottom, this note in general max
speeds of 8k-12K RMP for bits that are 2 1/2 -3 1/2 inches in diameter.
Looks like Harbor Freight bits would be a couple of steps up in
compared to these bits.
Looks like they have addressed the MAX RPM issue.
I have this set from Infinity (Chamfer 91-504)
I don't think I even chucked them up.
I would sell them for $70 shipped.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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