Third, DAGS on "shooting board". This is a jig (or is it a fixture?)
that holds the board while guiding a plane is to shave off the
end grain cleaning up the saw cut. Typically a single pass is
all that is needed.
Hmm, since the shooting board holds the workpiece AND guides the
tool at the same time I guess a shooting board is both a jig
and a fixture.
A guy had a small one at a job site a few years ago. Don't
remember the name but it was easily carried by one person.
Normally used for metalwork.
Quiet compared to any circular saw.
This one's a beauty, too.
They're tough as nails, and the head (rather than the vise) pivots for
miter cuts. I have no idea what they want for them, but if I had to
say what I'd expect to pay for one, I'd put it in the $500-600 range.
Much nicer than any other cut-off bandsaw I've seen- by quite a large
margin. Their sanders are nice, too.
On 9 Aug 2005 08:20:34 -0700, the opaque "ddt_toronto"
Try a Japanese style saw. They're quieter than any power saw and
quieter than Western saws. They cut about 3 t imes quicker with
one third the effort of a Western saw, too. $26 gets a good one
for you from www.JapanWoodworker.com . 1-800-537-7820 Asl for the
hardwood razor saw. You saw the ad in Fine Woodworking for $25.95
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
Ditto on that. They are excellent - a bit more fragile than 'Western' saws
but a lovely fast smooth cut.
Apart from that I was going to suggest a scrollsaw - quiet, but not
necessarily fast or straight lines...
It's going to be kind of difficult to cut an 8' long laminate board in half
with most scroll saws I've seen. :) Otherwise I would have suggested a
small bandsaw. I used to get away with running my bandsaw in my basement
shop when the kids were asleep; it was about the only (powered) saw I could
get away with that. Even now, it's the only one of my saws I don't usually
wear ear protection for. Well, the mitre saw I don't, but it's usually only
a quick cut or two.
Contractors have been getting ripped off for years now by a
conspiracy. The only thing that's generally available to us today are
devices that spin things like carbide-tipped saw blades with big motors.
But what do you think cuts the saw blade itself? That's right, a
laser! Have you seen the kerf on the anti-vibration cut-outs in the
Freud? Astoundingly clean, accurate, lightning fast, with a .5mm kerf.
So, take that new miter saw with the laser sight. All they need to do
is get rid of the motor and the blade and boost the laser power. How
hard can that be? I just did all the design work right there.
* Never needs sharpening!
* Totally quiet... no moving parts!
* No sawdust... just a little puff of smoke.
The laser could even match the color mark of the manufacturer
(e.g. yellow for dewalt, red for milwaukee, green for hitachi)
Well, you can see how this would kill lots of industries overnight, so
they'll never let us have them.
Cutting wood by essentially burning it away is a bit different to cutting
metal... I guess for studwork a bit of scorching wouldn't matter so much,
but for fine furniture? No thanks.
Also, the systems I've looked at in a quick google (up to 450W CO2 Lasers)
can only cut a max of 1" thickness. And a 450W laser is a hefty bit of kit
with a hefty price tag. Although I see EBay has a 3500W laser setup on
Buy-it-now for only $249,995.
Not to mention that saw cutting is only dangerous to people within reach of
the blade plus a bit for kickback. A high powered cutting laser would be a
danger to anyone in a pretty wide range, even if it was initially contained
inside the workshop. Want your dozy neghbour to have one?
Yes, no kickback either! I hadn't thought of that...but I'm sure that
will be on the first brochures when they start churning them out.
Scorching? By the time these things come out, all wood will be MDF
and need to be painted anyway :-)
Seriously, though, the *pulsed* lasers that do LASIK eye correction
DON'T SCORCH (they vaporize the wood before it burns)... they could
make a stopped, flat-bottomed hole in wood that looks like that you
made it with a forstner bit on your drill press but with 0.0001"
accuracy and no brad-point left in the bottom if you add a modicum of
And, if you wanted to thru-drill, that's another good thing... ZERO
One of the best uses is making those damned square mortise holes --
nobody's every pefected that satisfactorily. And even if you do have
the el-cheapo scorching version of the laser, we don't care a lot
inside a joint.
The price of anything initially (in "prototype" quantities) is quite
costly... but you can go to the dollar store and get a laser pointer
now for a buck... when they first came out they were a hundred bucks!
And don't forget, with a pulsed laser, the power is concentrated in a
short burst resulting in *much* lower wattage.
It might seem dangerous by today's standards, but again, look at the
LASIK lasers... they're a foot from your eyeball pointed directly at
Brad nailers and Hilti guns have quite a "range" too, and probably
seemed scary when they were first invented.
firstname.lastname@example.org (in MOtKe.173577$9A2.125878@edtnps89) said:
| So, take that new miter saw with the laser sight. All they need to
| do is get rid of the motor and the blade and boost the laser power.
| How hard can that be? I just did all the design work right there.
| * Never needs sharpening!
| * Totally quiet... no moving parts!
| * No sawdust... just a little puff of smoke.
Hmm - more benefits:
* Self cauterizing... losing a limb doesn't mean you'll bleed to
* Large capacity/range - 3500W model cuts "to infinity and beyond."
* Doubles as lawn mower/tree trimmer/pet groomer/grill starter.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
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