Well, David, you have to cut it with something. If you can't do it
with a power saw because it's too noisy, then you have to do it with a
handsaw. Might not be the way you'd like to see it done, and it may
not be easy, but a saw is a saw. Sure, it'll wear out the blade, but
that's true of the power saw blades as well. Either way, the flooring
has to be cut, right? FWIW, I have cut laminate flooring with a
dozuki, and continued to use it long after that project, until I cut a
nail in half with it by mistake and broke a bunch of teeth. Yes, I
did cut the nail in half- it's not hyperbole. Not the suggested use
for that tool, but even the cheap ones are tougher than you may think.
What brand of laminate did you cut? I use Wilson Art flooring which
makes me cringe each time I bring the blade down on my carbide
blade-equipped CMS. I'm still mulling over my options for cutting the
already-installed flooring for some new cabinets. I've got a carbide
blade for my 6-1/2" circular saw, but that will only do the long
straight runs. I'll need another tool to cut into the corners and up
against walls. Any ideas?
The same guy who used to go arouns to the woodworkign shows and
sell the drill bits that drill through files etc, sold reciprocating
saw blades (sawzall and saber saw) that were edged with silicon
carbide abrasive. If you can find one of those or the equivalent,
they might do the job. You could make a handle for one of those to
make a pad saw for getting into really tight places.
Does that company have an online presence?
I just bought a carbide edged bit for my Sawzall but the stroke on the
Sawzall is over an inch long, which would have me cutting well through
the floor as well as the laminate.
Is there a jig-saw-like tool that cuts flush and has a carbide edged bit
available?? I could limit it's cutting depth by covering the laminate
with a block of wood and the stroke of a jigsaw should be a lot less
than my Sawzall.
Not too bad. The midrange kit is about $239, IIRC. Woodcraft has them, as
well as some of the better builder supply yards.
The carbide grout cutter tool is a life saver when, for example, a
woodworker tiles a shower, and gets a little exhuberent with the thinset.
Just to pick an entirely random for instance.
But it is one sweet tool.
Pergo. It seemed to cut fine to me, but YMMV.
That's a sticky job you've got there... I don't know much about the
Wilson Art flooring, but perhaps you could remove the trim and use a
really cheap abrasive disc in a 4" angle grinder? That'd get you
really close, and then you could knock out the rest with a sharp
chisel (Use a cheap chisel, of course)
I do have an air powered angle grinder (it never has much "oomph", but
lots of RPM). I'll try it on some scrap laminate (and I could remove
the trim...DUH! (light bulb moment!)...I will HAVE to cut the trim
anyway, in order to install the wider cabinets.
(And here I was thinking I'd found the perfect excuse for a new
tool...but that's ok...I still need another Veritas plane [or 2])
I joined this thread late... If the OP marked his cuts fairly deep with a
knife and then used a good sharp handsaw I don't see any reason for him to
not get acceptable cuts for flooring. He'd probably do better than he would
with a mediocre CMS and mediocre blade... If he's doing this at night and
noise is a concern it doesn't sound like he's looking for production speed.
If you feel the finish is a concern than marking with the knife and then
cutting a V-groove along the line (on the waste side) with the knife would
eliminate the finish. The saw will track in the groove if some kind of saw
guide is used (e.g., bench hook, 90 degree setting in a miter box, etc)...
Depends on what kind of production you're doing. As stated in my
original post in this thread, I've done a whole pile of trim work with
a dozuki and a coping saw, and it was all up to snuff. Which is to
say, much nicer than 98% of the crap you see around you every day.
There really, really is an arguement for hand tools being at least as,
if not more, accurate than power tools in the hands of the right
person. If you're lopping off crappy laminate to beat the next guy's
lowest bid, then it's probably not worthwhile. If you're trying to
make/maintain a reputation for quality over speed, then a handsaw will
work beautifully. Especially when the job requires a special
requirement, like the lowest amount of noise or dust possible,
customers will often be willing to pay for real craftsmanship when it
is availible. Also, a good dozuki will cut most trim (though I can't
claim this for flooring, I imagine it it very similar) in 3-4 strokes-
similar in time to lining up the cut on the power miter saw.
Further evidence of the race to the bottom, I guess. Get yourself a
nice handsaw, Upscale, and give it a whirl- you may be surprised to
find that they actually do work. And, though it may seem unlikely,
they're sometimes faster than the power versions, as they don't
require special setups or jigs for some cuts.
Check out the miter boxes:
BOTH of these should be able to produce square, smooth ends similar to a
quality (power) chop saw. They have up to 32 tpi blades available. The
work can be clamped on the "bed" of the saw. The saw is "captive" in the
guides. Assuming that the saw is accurate and not defective (same
assumption for any equipment), there is no reason these would not make
quick, quits, accurate cuts. They *are* manual saws, and if you do much
cutting, you will get tired and sweaty. You'll make more noise huffing and
puffing than the saw will make.
Way back when I was in eighth grade shop, we cut everyting on a miter box
like the ones shown above. And we did nice precise cuts too. Everything was
square. Our shop teacher was very particular about that. If the project
wasn't square or had bad joints, out grades would suffer.
As for ripping, we had handsaws for that. We would cut close to a line.
thenplane the board to the line. We did pretty good as a group of
Lie-Nielson has a variety of back saws available now and will have panel
saws in the not too distant future... I've got a couple L-N back saws (rip
and cross-cut) and some Diston and Sandvik panel saws (again rip and various
cross-cut). The Diston and Sandvik saws didn't come into their own until
they had been sharpened. From the factory they cut OK but not nearly as good
as after a professional sharpening.
Take a look at Lee Valley. (http://www.leevalley.com/) and the Japan
Woodworker (http://www.japanwoodworker.com/page.asp?content_id (96)
I hesitate to make a recommendation, as everyone has a slightly
different preference, but each of these companies has good solid
products that work well. For what you're up to, I'd use something
Because I like cutting on the pull stroke, and the spine on the back
of the saw will keep it ridgid when making straight cuts in a miter
box. If you prefer the western-style saws, it's just a matter of
finding one that works for you. I favor a gent's saw with a crosscut
set over a dovetail saw (for instance) because of the handle style,
but as stated above, that's going to depend on you.
A cheap pull saw from a local borg will work as well, but will not
last nearly as long, and I've never seen one with a still brace on the
back of the blade.
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