Looking for router lift recommendations

[me]

I have an old Jessem first generation router lift. Was nice at the time but it has too many faults (no above table bit changes without a collet extension, will sink a little with vibration, the plate is about twice as big as new ones and it places the bit too far from the miter slot, etc.) I am looking to buy another router lift and router and want to make sure I make the right purchase this time. I would consider a router/lift combo if the some of the features are only available from a lift using a certain router... The most important thing to me is that I can do above table bit changes and that it is rock solid nuts on accurate. If I set it at 1/4 inch height and run 200 feet of wood through it I want it to still be at 1/4 on the last board.

TIA

[Ed Pawlowski]

My Benchdog has been perfect. For bit changes, I use my drill to run it up/down quickly and use the hand wrench to make adjustments as fine as you could ever want.

[Upscale]

How important is the router lift? The Triton TRC001 router offers above the table bit changes all by itself and has a reputation for being a solid router. I don't own one yet, but am considering the purchase of one even though I already have a Makita plunge router. Ping Leon with any questions you have for his Triton router.

[Steven Boyes]

I know they are in receivership in Australia. I have been waiting for someone to take it over so that I can get spare parts for a 3 in 1 Sander.

Steve

[Bob S.]

I have the first generation Rout-R-Lift by JessEm also and solved the problem of changing bits easily. CMT used to offer a selection of bent wrenches designed specifically for the routers they were selling at the time. No more pulling the whole lift and router out to change a bit.

I wouldn't want to stop you from buying a new toy but JessEm has several new models that should satisfy your needs.

Bob S.

[DJ Delorie]

I went with the woodpecker lift (the original 1/32 pitch one) and, aside from it being "tight" (good for routing, harder on the crank) I've found no fault in it.

[dayvo]

I also use a woodpeck lift with a DW621. You can adjust the elevation screw to be less tight and it cranks easier. I couldn't be happier with the setup. It's super quiet with no noticeable vibration.

For the original poster, if your current router lift is drifting down then you need to lock the height adjustment on your router. I don't think most lifts are designed to lock the height in place. Vibration from the router will make the adjustment screw drift.

[krw]

I have a Jet Xacta lift and use an old Ryobi RE600 (before Ryobi was complete junk) in it. I'm quite happy with the setup and am planning to put it in my saw's extension table to free up floor space. I hope I'm happy with the setup. I use both pretty regularly.

[Upscale]

Can't answer that as I'm in Canada. Their routers are still available as I've seen them in stores. Try contacting them at

[Leon]

Whoa! I though you were getting the mud bugs from Randall's....

[Swingman]

LOL ... thought that might get a rise out of you! ;)

[Leon]

Would we like COLD Fosters with the bugs?

[Jack Stein]

If it were me I'd rather get something like this:

way, you still have your old router when you need it, as a router, and will have a real shaper when you need it. The lift mechanism on my shaper is flawless and changing bits is a snap. I don't have, or know anything about the one above, but I bet it's better than most routers used as a shaper...

It's also nice to have both, I often have one setup in the shaper, and a different one in the router, saves a lot of fussing with set-ups.

[-MIKE-]

Considering what a good router and table cost, that's a great idea. I know "HP" is a debatable topic, but the 3/4 HP would worry me, especially on something designed for such large cutters heads. Their 1-1/2HP is on sale for 500 bucks.

[Ed Pawlowski]

That looks like a real HP rating though, probably equal to a 3 HP router.

[Steve Turner]

Dad has this model, and it's a lot of machine in a nice compact package. Beats the hell out of a router for swinging the big bits, and if you're running standard shaper cutters (instead of router bits) you also have the ability to invert the bit and reverse the motor rotation, which is *very* handy for certain profiles.

[Steve Turner]

Oh hell yeah; the cutter is belt driven by a beefy induction motor.

*Way* more powerful than my 3HP Makita router.

[Upscale]

Just out of interest's sake, how loud is your dad's shaper? Would you compare it to a 3 hp router which I'd brand as extremely loud or is it considerable more subdued?

[-MIKE-]

Yeah, then I guess I just don't understand HP and how it's rated on different machines and motors and whatnot.

*I'll take for granted the opinion of a trusted, knowledgeable guy like Steve.

(*That's for the nice things said about me to that douche nozzle over in rmmp.) :-)

[Steve Turner]

The latter, definitely. More of a low-pitch throaty sound and not nearly as loud as the high-pitch scream of the universal motors found in your typical "3HP" router. Of course, shapers only spin the bit at about 10,000 RPM so that's a contributing factor too. Either machine is still going to make a fair amount of noise once you start cutting wood, but the shaper just seems to do it more quietly, and its sheer smoothness and power makes it more satisfying to use (IMO).