1. Home
  2. Woodworking Forum
  3. Leigh D4 - any suggestions?

Leigh D4 - any suggestions?

I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that would speed the learning curve. Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's

Thanks Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa
Loading thread data ...

Don't try. Make yourself a large batch of test boards (i.e. a dozen that are all the same length, width, and thickness) and go through the manual methodically, doing everything once. Then when you need to do something real with it, it won't be your first time, and you can use the quick references in the back.

But there really isn't much of a learning curve for the standard uses of the D4, so trying to speed it up will only frustrate you and reduce your enjoyment and productivity with the D4.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

We have a great class here at American Sycamore Woodworkers Retreat and most Wood Craft stores offer a Leigh class. What I could show someone in a hour would be very beneficial. Good luck, Mike from American Sycamore

formatting link

Reply to
aswr

CENTER YOUR COLLARS or be prepared for frustration. Don't be seduced by the idea that you can hold the router in the same orientation and get by. CENTER YOUR COLLARS.

While making your demos, look to the pages where you are supposed to mark your compensations. Scan and print some extras right away, mark your settings carefully, and things get a lot easier. Since you'll have different settings with any different diameter bit, mark them carefully. I'm using spiral bits now, because they're friendlier on splintery woods, and would recommend you try them to prove for yourself after you CENTER YOUR COLLARS.

Reply to
George

I agree with the others ... start with lots of scrap to practice on.

I had problems at first as my collet did not grip the bit tight enough & there was slight slippage ...

Keep the book near by & follow the directions carefully.

I was using 1/4" in my PC router, I just bought their 8mm collet & some

8mm bits & can't wait to try them out.

JJS

TeamCasa wrote:

Reply to
No-One

I don't want to seem as though I'm dense, but what do you mean center your collars?

Reply to
Bob

Graduate ASAP to the 8mm shank bits rather than use 1/4" shank bits.

Reply to
Leon

Collars, guides, inserts, whatever you want to call them. If they're not concentric with the bit, you get unpredictable results.

I've _heard_ it can take quite a bit of time for dense people without clever wives like mine to figure it out....

Reply to
George

I got it George! I will insure that the router bit is dead center in the guide collar.

Thanks, Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa

I love it Leon, any excuse to buy more tools!

Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa

Thanks Mike, but your in the frozen tundra of Indiana and I live in sunny SoCal. I'm sure I can derive the lessons out of someone more local, but thanks for the info.

Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa

|I just picked up a new D4 and I 'm hoping to get a few suggestions that |would speed the learning curve. |Any user suggestion? Do's - Dont's

Didn't you get the video too? Watching it done the first couple of times you try a new setup is the cat's meow. I have a 12" TV with a built-in VCR and take it into the shop and follow along.

It's almost like having Nahm coaching you....without the brad nailer of course.

Oh, and forget about trying to use plywood dwah sides.

Reply to
Wes Stewart

Wax the fingers -- it will make your router base move across with less effort and you'll be less likely to push down hard and flex the fingers, thus causing gaps.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita

Any recommendations on how to do that? BTW, I'm not disagreeing with your comment, I know that was one of my problems with the sets of drawers I finished making.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Now we'll just use some glue to hold things in place until the brads dry +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita

"George" wrote in news:41e83e22$1 snipped-for-privacy@newspeer2.tds.net:

Now if I have my wife come and help me solve problems in the shop, she'll think she belongs there regularly, and I will have lost my major place of refuge. That's another reason to keep it at about 43F. And bring the projects into the laundry room for the oils to cure.

For the OP: The problem is that the lack of concentricity is subtle, and you will be off by just enough that you'll think the DT looks crummy, but it still 'sorta fits'. An alignment, or guide, pin is available. The router base plate is what you adjust to the base, assuming that you have purchased a router collar or guide of sufficient quality to begin with.

Router cut dovetails are like a lot of other power tool processes. They are really efficient, once you dial in the setups. Some folks I know buy a router just for half-blind dovetails, and leave it set up that way, all of the time. When I do the kitchen, I'll do the same.

Patriarch, enjoying the faint aroma of Waterlox...

Reply to
Patriarch

  1. Loosen the screws holding the router subbase to the base.
  2. Mount the collar in the subbase.
  3. Insert a centering tool in the router collet and tighten the collet nut.
  4. Lower the collet until the centering tool engages the collar. If you've loosened the mounting screws appropriately, this will pull the collar and subbase into perfect alignment with the collet.
  5. Tighten the screws holding the subbase.
  6. Remove the centering tool.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Reply to
Doug Miller

NOTE: there are some bases out there which have tapered mounting holes. This won't work for them, of course. Sometimes there's enough play in the guide/collar hole to center, so examine yours, and remember to have this tightened well if you're moving the base.

The new P-Cs have a spider-looking thing, if I can believe Norm, and that's where you'll adjust there.

OR: 1a) Slip the Bosch insert into the 1617 and press on.

Reply to
George

What's a "centering tool" and where do I buy one? I use Porter-Cable routers and a Hitachi M12V. A quick google-search turned up a CMT unit, but that seems to be part of an industrial table.

Reply to
Ed Clarke

What do you mean ..".frozen tundra of Indiana"? ...I will have you know that the day before yesterday it was 68 degrees here......yeah I know ....today the temperature has fallen to 20 degrees........but no mud slides or forest fires to report!!...I had the pleasure to live in SD, CA and I did enjoy the weather!!It truly is a wonderful place. Good luck Mike from American Sycamore

Reply to
aswr

A Google search on "porter cable router centering tool" turns up this:

formatting link

Scroll down to the middle of the page for the "Universal Centering Alignment Pin".

I use the Bosch RA1150 centering cone in my 1617EVS. It would probably work in your PC router too. Amazon has them for ~ $15 IIRC.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Reply to
Doug Miller

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.