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[Doug Miller]

Ray wrote in news: [e-mail]:

seeing your detailed step-by-step photos of the process. Very nice.

[Leon]

Very nice Ray. DAMN nice actually!

[Larry Blanchard]

Most of us know the following, but for those who haven't stopped to consider it:

The number of inches of wood removed in a carving is orders of magnitude less than the inches removed in a few minutes of turning.

Let's see - the lathe is turning at 2000rpm with a 6" diameter bowl blank on it so ...

[russellseaton1]

Yes, but the lathe has a 1/2 to 3 hp motor powering it. Someone else will have to figure the foot pounds of force where the 6 inch turning and the lathe gouge meet. I'm guessing its several times greater than the force applied by a human arm to the carving gouge where it meets the wood. Given the power provided by the lathe to force the wood into the lathe gouge, a lathe gouge can be very dull compared to a carving gouge powered by arm muscles. Jack hammers use dull cutting bits but still manage to cut concrete.

[Leon]

LOL Yeah I don't think jack hammers cut anything so much as beating in to submission and breaking.

[Ralph E Lindberg]

Nice work Ray. Question, have you noted any glue failures in those forms where you are gluing side grain to end grain? If not, what glue are you using.

Personally I have found I need to avoid that type of joint

[Ray]

Thanks for the compliments. I have been doing turning for about a year so it may be too early to know about glue failures. I have been doing woodworking for 65 years. In general I try to avoid cross grain joints. Since most of the designs are cut rings on a scroll saw the cross sections are thin. Most of the bowls end up 1/4" thick so there is some give. I use yellow titebond II. I have felt some of the older joints and can't feel any creep for the year old bowls. I have experienced joint creep on other types of projects so I know what to look for.

Ray