laminates

What is the proper way to trim laminates (formica) and can MDF be used with contact cement? In my case the building supply only has 1/2" MDF not 1/2" particle board. I need 1/2". Am I right in thinking that the edges should be glue on first and then trimed with a straight flush cutting bit and then the faces glued on and trimed with an angled flush cutting bit. Also can the edge strip be heated and bent around radiused corners or should each of the

4 edges have a seperate strip? Thanks
Reply to
habbi
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We learned to trim laminate using a lam trimming bit on router. Yes you can use MDF as the base. Apply contact cement on both the MDF and lam faces, wait for about 20 minutes till cement feels dry. Put edges on first using 4 separate pieces, trim w/ bit. Put top on, trim and then file down on a diagonal with a bastard file or rasp smooth. We had a project that required bending laminate over inside and outside curves with a heat gun. That was awful. Bending lam is easier on thin laminate because the thicker material cracks and breaks. good luck

Reply to
Wilson

don't forget the J-roller to ensure complete contact.

dave

Reply to
ClemsonDave

"vertical surfacing laminate" is the thin stuff...

dave

Wilson wrote: Bending lam is easier on thin laminate because the thicker material

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

Did David Eisan teach you that? What ever happened to him. He used to post lots. But he didn't use plywood for projects much. But he sure knows about bending!

Bay Area Dave wrote:

Reply to
Jules

But if you don't want to sound like a rube ask for Vertical Grade.

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

I DON'T sound like a Rube; I was using a technical term. YOU, however sound like a [fill in the blank]

dave

Unisaw A100 wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

Actually Dave I posted this for the others and not for you. I'd hate to think the eyeballing some of our fine friends here on the wreck might get when they request "vertical surfacing laminate" when in the industry and at all the suppliers it goes by the name Vertical Grade or in some areas V32 (which is short for Vertical .32 (the thickness of Vertical Grade)).

Also, when wanting something that goes on a flat horizontal surface they (the others that is/not you of course) would request Standard Grade (.050). Standard Grade is falling out of favor though and some suppliers don't keep it in stock. Instead they are stocking Post Forming Grade (.039) which holds up as well as Standard Grade but is a wee bit thinner. The Post Forming Grade is handy because you can choose to use it for horizontal surfaces or with a coving bar. By the way Dave, ever accidently touch a coving bar? I didn't think so but I will tell you, it's not something you'd do twice.

Please feel free to continue asking suppliers for things using technical sounding names you've made up. They get a real kick out of it. Oh, and the blank stares you get, may not always be onna 'count of the guy's a few plys short of being a full thickness. He may just be wondering, "Who is this rube".

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

What always works for me is asking for,

"That skinny shit that goes on the wall."

But - ya know, it's Pennsyltucky I'm tawkin' bout.

Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website:

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Reply to
Tom Watson

And you are.

Actually, the above will bear out as, "Instead, I'll continue to participate to see who has the last word".

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

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