My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has dropped, it's too cold to woodwork without heat. I'm looking at a kerosene heater. I don't think ventilation is a problem since I can feel a little draft and I think this kerosene heater will raise the temps enough for me to work. What do you think? Is this a basic solution, or bad idea for some reason?
Thanks,
S.
I have heard that Kerosene heaters introduce a lot of humidity to the air, but I could be wrong.
I use a small propane heater that uses 2 cylinders like goes with a camp stove. Got it clearance last spring for about $25. Sucker gets hot and will run for about 12 hours on high. I can usually get about a full weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real cold.
sams> My garage is not airtight, and now that the weather has
I use a propane heater connected to a 'barbecue grill' sized propane tank. You need to buy an extension hose to connect it (Home Depot). You can see a picture of mine in action in my Woodshop-a-garage here:
Shouldn't be a problem. I use them all the time in areas where I am working. The only drawback to kerosene is the price. I use about 10-15 gallons a week when it gets cold and it is running about 5 bucks a gallon if you buy in bulk. More if you get the ripoff 5 gallon cans at home depot. I think they are charging about 9 dollars a gallon for it.
How cold is real cold? I use a 30,000 Btu heater and it is not enough once it gets down to 20.
Kerosene heaters do gobble up the oxygen, but if your building is really leaky, that should be okay...but the cost and the smell...that smell...man.... it gets into everything.
Brings back good memories of the barn during the winter when I was growing up. It's not all that bad.
I used one in the winter back when they were very popular and kerosene was low cost, neither of which exist today.
As an alternate, I'd take a look at propane fired radient heaters.
Much better deal today.
Lew
they do and more smell propane is better.
"samson" wrote in news:4750d246$0$24307 $ snipped-for-privacy@roadrunner.com:
Adding to the confusion ...
Propane is a hydrocarbon with 3 carbon atoms in a row, surounded by hydrogens, sort of like:
H H H | | | H-C-C-C-H | | | H H H
When it burns, all the H's make water, the C's give CO2, carbon dioxide, (hopefully not CO, carbon monoxide).
Longer hydrocarbons have relatively fewer hydrogens, so would yield less water, more CO2.
But kerosene smels, and propane is probably easier to get ...
I've got one of those double-headed radiant propane rigs what bolts to the top of a propane cylinder. Does very well in my 20X20 garage. Be warned that touching the back of one of those burners will instantly melt your skin (and I have the scar to prove it).
Used to be that just about every gas station had a kerosene pump. Haven't seen one in years--today I'm going to see if I can find one and check prices--should be cheaper than diesel because no highway tax. The 7 bucks a gallon that Home Despot charges is ludicrous.
If we ever go to a hydrogen economy rust is going to be one of the unintended consequences I suspect.
I've used a 23,000 BTU round model in my smoke detector equipped basement and garage for 15 years.
- I turn it off and let it cool (or remove it) before using volatile stuff.
- I take it out of the basement (walk-out, no stairs) to start it and turn it off. This keeps the smell out of the house. I don't bother in the garage.
- Every 2-3 tanks, I "dry burn" it to clean the wick.
- I use my Jet AFS-1000B to even the heat distribution
- I never leave it unattended
Works great for me. My wife is SUPER sensitive to odors, and she doesn't complain.
I do know that smell.
However, if you start and shut it down outside, and burn the wick dry on a regular basis (also outside), it really makes a huge difference. Before I did this, my wife would come home from school and complain. Now, she only "knows it's on".
It is getting expensive, though! I paid $4.25/ga., at a gas station in Portland, CT. last Saturday, because the fuel oil dealer that normally charges ~ $3.50 was sold out..
FWIW, the newer stuff seems to burn even cleaner and is labeled on the pump as "low-sulfur" kero. Since it's higher priced than diesel, there's been no dye in the last couple of fills I bought.
When I come up for a furnace / boiler replacement in the next 5-10 years, I plan on adding capacity for an extra, separately controllable, hydronic loop to the system to heat the shop.
Here in Memphis, it rarely every gets down below 20 or so. usually only about 20 days below freezing each winter.
Edw>> . I can usually get about a full weekend on 2 cylinders unless it is real >> cold. >
I use kerosene all winter. I don't know if I'm doing the right thing or not. I'm noticing a bit more rust on my tools than normal, but I've used kerosene in the past without that problem.
Odor's not really a problem beyond startup, assuming the wick is adjusted properly and the burner is operating right.
The heat is tremendous. mapdude may get as much or more heat from propane, but kerosene is what I have so I use that.
Tanus
I have used a Kerosene heater for years with no problem. In our area, and even with elevated Kerosene prices, it is much cheaper to use than propane. I have some rules.
1) I work in a three car garage and all vehicles are OUT. 2) No gasoline cans in the garage 3) The heater is well away from woodworking and the Kero can 4) Sweep up often in attempt to keep dust down; and clean the exterior of the heater from time to time. 5) It gets turned off when any finishing starts (using oil based finishes, solvents, etc, )I also have a 1,500 watt cube heater that I run with the Kero heater. On mildly cold days I can often take the edge off with the Kerosene heater, and then turn it off and the cube will sustain the temperature for a while. I also keep the cube going when I'm doing finishing.
It does stink a little when started and after shutoff. No problems otherwise.
Main thing - use your head.
RonB
The moisture has more to do with you being there than the heater. You're putting a lot into the warming air which is now capable of holding it, where your moisture precipitated when it was cold and saturated.
Rust comes from the time when the air has lots of moisture while it warms, and the metal is still cold. Condensation.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.