Bought a Kerfmaker KM-1 from Bridge City Tool Works after learning
about it from the Wreck. It does everything its maker says it will do.
I was able to make the best half lap joints I ever did.
I guess this falls into the catagory of the old cliche of building a
better mouse trap.
On 1/22/2010 10:53 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
(Inspired by Bridge City KM-1 tool.)
If you are using this on a TS and use a stacked dado set simply using a
stacked set up to 1/2" you can cut a 3/4" dado easily with the minimum of 2
passes. Technically you should be making a minimum of 2 passes anyway.
I am a bit confused about wanting a 3/4 block? What would that be for?
Sure, the KM-1 sets up the two passes. My stacked dado goes well over
3/4" (limited by the arbor, actually).
The KM-1 stop block. 1x material is too thick for the stop block. A
1x doesn't fit in the notch under the gold piece (don't remember the
BTW, the stop block clamped to the fence rail works great.
Unfortunately the Kerf Maker is only designed however to work with "up to" a
1/2" kerf. But that should basically get up up to ~1" with only 2 passes.
Oh, you are talking about the short step that has to be used for the 2 cut
positions. Normal stock you have around the shop would be too thick. Yeah,
that could be a bit taller than 3/4" but that would make the jig larger and
in turn easier to find when misplaced and in turn fewer "replacement of lost
jig" sales. :~) I always have a lot of scrap 1/2" Baltic Birch so that is
not a bid deal for me. In fact my Kreg miter gauge stop works well as is,
instead of flipping the kerf maker 180 degrees I go 90 degrees so that the
longer end is up.
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