How little is the joiner?
It sounds like the outfeed table is a touch low...while you have pressure on the board on the infeed, the board end isn't getting cut...later, when you have pressure on the outfeed side of the board, the center is being cut.
"dadiOH" wrote in news:ka7dvg$a0d$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Good thought!
Thanks!
Ed Pawlowski wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Good thought, but I can't fit a 42" long board on my sled :( I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the boards.
Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may or may not work.
Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:
This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for years before buying a jointer:
Swingman wrote in news:Ba6dnacAUrW3-lrNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Looking at those setups now!
You could use less glue.
"dadiOH" wrote in news:ka7sgs$c2b$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Probably ...
Note of concern about this. In the latest issue of FWW (#231, Feb/2013, p.7): There is a "letter to the editor" indicating that making a "tapered cutoff", as described in an earlier issue (much like you described above), resulted in a the offcut falling into the back of the blade resulting in kickback and many stiches to the person's face. The accident was due to the person not using a riving knife, which would have separated the offcut, but the riving knife wasn't mentioned in the article.
Peronally, I don't think I would have foreseen the accident described above. It reminds me just enough of what you described above, to mention it--especially for the sake of anyone using a TS without a riving knife.
Bill
As another asked (and I've not seen answered) how little is "little"? A
4" benchtop w/ only 14-16" tables could be a trick, perhaps, but a full-size jointer, even if only 4" should be able to do 42" w/o too much trouble and certainly a 6".Not knowing the model, here's a link to the Delta sheet for one of the
6" guys that describes how the adjustments are done...Another suggested the outfeed table is low--that really isn't the symptom for that; generally there you'd see a gouge at the tail end of the cut as it drops of the table is low as the end of the piece comes off the infeed table.
If the outfeed is high, it will cause a curved workpiece but the work will be slightly convex, not concave because as Fig 18 shows in the link the edge will ride on the front lip of the outfeed table initially as the work is held down on the infeed. But, if the pressure is shifted to the outfeed only, then if it is high, less will be taken from the trailing edge.
The other possible problem is that the table sags...
Likely it's a combination of perhaps of technique and alignment. How near straight an edge did you have to start with? Did you try to take any initial curvature out by working either both ends from the middle if it were concave or just hit the middle a couple of times if convex? If it's long and had a bow to begin with, you may have just followed the initial shape and simply lessened it just a little...
I've done (w/ effort) pieces as long a 6-ft on a little 6" Craftsman successfully so one _can_ stretch the limits w/ care and practice... :)
--
I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not come with, at a minimum, a splitter.
Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is valid, some sheer political correctness.
Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.
I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required on new saws?
BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news1.newsguy.com:
My Craftsman table saw dates from the '80s, I believe. It came with a splitter of sorts, complete with antikickback pawls and a bladeguard. This combination is mounted on the back of the saw and it should be in place for all cuts except dado. I do know I should have always used it, because it is necessary. DAMHIKT!!
Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the antikickbackpawls, but you know ...
dpb wrote in news:ka7vps$l2k$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:
Thanks for the extensive comments. Much appreciated!
My jointer is a 6" Delta Shopmaster model JT160. The instructions say nothing about my problem. I am rather sure it's my technique that did this. I have to get the thing in a better place and practice with some disposable wood. OTOH, one of the jigs that Karl (Swingman) mentioned may do the trick too.
The boards were pretty straight-edged to begin with. But the edges were a bit rounded. Perhaps I'll just glue the next set and then sand them down, or the other way around.
At least this is/was a woodworking discussion !!!
I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!
If they lose their grip, it's probably time.
How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written in by a lawyer. : )
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news4.newsguy.com:
Juast going by memory. I had to peruse the manual a little while ago. I have always had a bit of trouble getting the blade adjusted to an angle, and then back to 90°. The Wixey digital angle readout widget is always a great help.
Might not be all your technique ... spend some time being anal about the tables being set up properly. Chances that it was done to a gnat's ass at the factory is slim to none.
The general rule of thumb for the length of board you can practically joint on any particular jointer is 1 1/2 times the combined length of the tables.
IOW, on a well set up jointer with a combined table length of +/- 30", and with proper technique, the average user can practically joint boards in the neighborhood of 45" in length.
This can be increased with practiced technique, but probably not much more than double for all practical purposes, and that will take some practiced experience.
Rip or Cross-Cut? ;~)
Many other times, these letter to the editor leave out key aspects of the incident which illustrate proof of the writer's foolishness and/or ignorance that was the cause of the problem to begin with.
Such letters are generally the writer's own therapy.
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in news:toudncbD15JuNVrNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com:
Doesn't really matter, John. :)}
-MIKE- wrote in news:ka8a2a$hqk$1 @speranza.aioe.org:
Healing therapy, that is :)}
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