My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old
I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached
Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).
The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.
Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?
Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than I was
pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing it, I
found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250 without
the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor. After I
moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could have
repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster Carr
type in exactly the specifications:
What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.
Being a novice in electrical, here's what I did when my
vintage Delta's drill motor stopped working, I removed the
motor from the mounting and applied power, It will not
rotate. With the power still on, I manually rotate the
pulley, it continues to rotate and speed up to full rpm.
When I switched the power off, it stopped rotating. I repeat
the test a few times to be sure. I concluded that the
capacitor had failed as the capacitor main function is to
start the motor. However, if the motor cannot rotate
manually without power on, than it could be the bearings, or
if it rotates and make a sound it maybe the carbon brushes
or other problems. If you have a millimeter and know how to
test the motor winding do it, otherwise go 30 miles and have
someone test it for you, rather than replacing the motor
like I did.
To continue the story... I tried to resizing both pulleys to
get the RPM I need for my new motor, I found it's impossible
as the pulley size will be too big to fit the constrained
space. Anyone looking for a new unused Baldor motor? Make me
an offer that I cannot refuse. I am in CA.
I believe the capacitor you need is 7245K111.
If the spec and the size fit your motor click "1" on the
"EACH" at the lower left side... and you got a new
Good luck, please tell us the result :-)
BTW, C.H. Wilke Inc. no longer sell Yorkcraft and I still
using the Yorkcraft 15" planner.
Capacitance, actually -- a measure of the capacitor's ability to hold electric
charge. MFD = microfarads. This is also sometimes shown as the Greek letter mu
(which looks like a lower-case u with a tail) followed by the letter f.
There's really no need at all to match the physical dimensions. The
new capacitor doesn't have to be mounted in the same orientation, or even in
the same place, as the old one. It just needs to have the same electrical
You don't need an exact match on the voltage; anything rated between 115V and
125V will match up with about anything else rated in the same range.
The capacitance needs to be a fairly close match, I'd guess +/- five or ten
percent. Exact match of course is better.
Sounds like it may be a bad start capacitor.
(It's located on the side of the motor under that little hump cover.)
Open cover and look at cap for leaks and rating.
Grainger, McMaster-Carr, local motor shop, good hardware store, etc,
should have replacement.
You may have bad bearings especially if the armature is hard to turn with no
One cause of a hum with no start condition is a bad capacitor.
Lots of places sell bearings. Motor shops should have capacitors in stock.
I suspect that you could buy both bearings and capacitor for less than $199.
However, a motor shop might charge you more than $199 to fix your motor.
A repair shop is unlikely to charge more than a new motor might cost since
they wouldn't get much business. It's not going to hurt to take the motor in
and get an estimate. My 1 hp tablesaw motor bearings went a few years ago. I
knew they were going from the sound but resisted taking the motor in until I
sold the saw to a close friend. Estimate was $86 with a six month warranty.
A new motor would have cost me $200 ca with a two year warranty. Had the
motor repaired and it's run fine for the past twelve years.
I agree with the other posters that the most likely case is the start
capacitor. If you have another stationary tool with a motor in the 1.5
range try swapping the capacitor to see if it's the problem. For the
test the capacitor doesn't have to be an exact replacement, as long as
it's close to the 400 - 480 MFD range and rated for 120V. A new
capacitor will run about $10 - $15.
If by "wobbles back and forth" you mean the shaft moves laterally
relative to the motor case, then your bearing are long gone. If you
mean a rotational wobble, then I'll echo the other responses. Take the
capacitor and a $10 bill to a local motor shop and get a replacement.
The problem with a 3o mile ride is the possibility that I have to drop it
off so that they can look at it later meaning 2 trips and a not so nominal
charge to declair it "not worth fixing" ... that's why I asked here to get a
feel for what might be wrong.
The motor shops I've dealt with have never made a charge if it could not be
fixed. In my case, that would only be one trip since we have a telephone.
Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.
That is exactly what I mean. Widoff's Bakery in Worcester MA had a great
sourdough Jewish rye, just like the old days. Just don't go the day before
Christmas or Easter unless you can wait in line for a half hour at 7 AM.
Same thing at Golemo's for the kielbasa. There are a few very good ethnic
stores in the area.
Others have suggested 'bad start capacitor'.
In addition to the start capacitor, there's a switch that connects
the capacitor at startup and disconnects it during motor run.
Don't be so sure you need to buy parts; I've fixed motors
by cleaning sawdust from those switches.
It's usually inside the bell housing of the motor, near the
centrifugal arms (at speed, these weights pull a spring back
and the switch opens up).
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