Joiner "snipe"

[Doug Miller]

Simple concept indeed -- but you seem to have missed it. The "precise corrective adjustment" with respect to using a dial indicator consists of turning the elevating screws while watching the dial indicator. It doesn't matter how many turns it takes.

Well, we don't see it the same way at all. I'd say quite the opposite: if you think it's *not* significantly different, there's no help for you.

Explain that one, please: if all three knives are "perfectly level to the outfeed", what is the source of error?

.. then the knives aren't "perfectly level to the outfeed" .

Trial and error...

.. then the knives aren't "perfectly level to the outfeed" .

Trial and error again.

Or you could use a dial indicator, or a straightedge and feeler gauges, to set the height precisely -- and eliminate the trial and error steps you've just described.

If that works for you, fine. I've done it that way, and I find it to be a PITA. I find it a lot simpler to use a dial indicator: pick one knife, any knife, and set it so it's the same height above the outfeed table all the way across. Or below the table; it doesn't matter at this point. Then set the other two knives to the same height. Note that so far, it doesn't matter what that height is -- just as long as it's the same height for all three, all the way across. Finally, I adjust the outfeed table so that it's one-thou below one of the knives (any of the three will do, since they're all the same now), and go to work. No trial and error, no catches on the outfeed, no snipe on the trailing end, just a nice clean cut.

[Paul D]

if you use straight edge method and you don't have to adjust outfeed after inserting and adjusting knives because it's all done in one step. One of the reasons I prefer my method is that it works with all cutter systems.

How well does a dial indicator work

• on a set of scew mounted jointer knives? (no constant top centre)

• on a spiral cut rebating head ? (no straight edge to measure off)

• on a set of knives for a spindle collar ? (usually referenced of a point or a radiused edge)

• on a tennoner head? (no straight edge to measure off)

Every one seems to carry on about the number of test cuts. 99.9% of teh time I have enough confidence in the setup that I simply go straight back to what I was doing.It would only be in an extreme situation that I would even bother to do a test cut.

When talking about standard jointer cutter block both methods are essentiall the same. The only difference is that you work in a specific measurement (thou) and set to zero thou. The straight edge system works in an 'universal' measuring system. It makes no diff if your talking metric, imperial or hair thicknesses you just set it to zero whatever units you ar working in.

[Bill in Detroit]

Every cutter head that I am familiar with (except a B&D mounted router bit) cuts with reference to a fixed point and can be adjusted with reference to that fixed point. Find the fixed point, extend it if needed, and you've located one end of the indicator set up. The point being measured is, by definition, the other end. There is NO NEED for a straight edge at the measured surface ... none.

Indicators measure points, one at a time. When the points no longer vary, the line is straight, the circle round and concentric, the surface flat. You need TDC when using a straight edge because you have no other reference point. An indicator is not thus limited ... but can readily find that point, too, if desired.

With an indicator, the element of guesswork in 'trusting' a set up disappears. With proper use of an indicator you KNOW where the cutting edge is and you KNOW the amount of error you are accepting. From that, you can decide to trust or not based on knowledge. If I am cutting a groove and it is .002" deeper than intended, nearly always that is no problem and I would go ahead and make the cut ... but that is my choice based on knowledge, not guesswork.