I just got a Delta JT160; a benchtop 6" jointer.
It edge joints just fine.
There is snipe when I face plane; just a tad, but it is there all across the
I figured it has to be set properly or there would be snipe on the edges
also, so I played around with how I was feeding it; but it wouldn't go away.
I called Delta. They say my knives are set to high (you can't adjust the
outfeed table, but must set the knives to it.) But wouldn't that give me
snipe on the edge joints as well?
I am so confused.
I figure it probably is my technique. I thought maybe I was pushing it down
on the knives after it cleared the infeed table, so I shifted all the
pressure to the front, but it didn't help. If you have any suggestions for
proper face planing...
My techique seems to be fine on the edges; but there I am not using a push
Lift the end a little as you begin the feed and
lift the end on the outfeed end as you finish
the pass. I suspect that as you start the feed
your pressing down on the board off the infeed
table - that raises the other end up into the
planer knives rather than under them. And on
the outfeed side, pressing down on the piece
off the table will rasie the end up into the
knives rather than under them.
Think of the end of the infeed table as a fulcrum
since the infeed roller is spring loaded and can
be pushed up away from the table. As you start the
feed, if you press down on the stock behind the back
of the infeed table you can push the infeed roller
up, along with the end of the stock as it approaches
Once both the infeed and the outfeed rollers are on
the stock they control things.
But after the stock passes the infeed roller
only the knives and the outfeed roller control
the stock. Like the infeed roller, the outfeed
roller is spring loaded. The closer the end of the
stock gets to the knives the more affect moving the
the outfeed side of the stock up has, keeping it
down on the table rather than lifting it up into
rather than under the knives.
So lift up on as you feed in and lift up on the
outfeed side near the end of the cutting.
He must have thought the OP was talking about a planer.
I would still check the knife adjustment.
No offence to the OP or his jointer, but I personally would not purchase a
jointer without a adjustable out-feed table.
If the jointer is still pretty new, and your shop space and funds allow,
maybe return it and upgrade to a floor model.
No offense taken.
I was a bit surprised when I got it to find it had no outfee adjustment; but
I guess that is part of why it was $150.
I was willing to pay more for a real jointer, but there just isn't any room
I am reluctant to mess with the knives when it is edge jointing just fine.
I was adjusting my jointer to get a smooth face after reading an article on
the setup of jointers by the editor of the Long Island Woodworkers Club.
They said to place a flat board with two marks 5/16" apart at the edge of
the outfeed table. With power off, turn the cutterhead until it contacts
the board and pushes it forward. When it pushes the board from the first
mark to the second you know the height of your blades are just a hair higher
than the outfeed table and everything will work.
WELL, that ended up GIVING me snipe. I was freaking out, I'd never had
snipe before!! ACK! So, I decided to make the gap smaller (I think I ended
up with 1/8" instead) and when I adjusted my outfeed table to get the knives
to push the board that much (I realize this isn't perfect, and don't forget
to check all 3 knives) I face jointed another board and viola! No snipe :)
So, unfortunately, in your case if this is your problem you'll HAVE to
adjust the knives. If they're too proud of the outfeed table, they'll do ok
on the first part of your board because you're feeding it forward and I
figure the force of the knives pushing into the wood as you feed it across
forces the board up ever so slightly. Then when you finish the cut the
board is able to "settle" down into the knives at the very end and you end
up with snipe.
I'd check your edge jointer boards really carefully, mine didn't look like
it had snipe, but when I layed it across the outfeed table and looked for
light shining through, I noticed the snipe was actually about 3-4" long vs.
1" long on the face jointed board, and so I didn't notice it right away, but
it was there.
Good luck, I hate changing knives, but I think that's what you've got to do.
=======================For the last 40 odd years I have been using a Rockwell 6 inch jointer
that has a fixed out feed table.... Still waiting for my first problem
with this configuration ... Honest I never had a single problem with a
fixed out feed table...
Hate to say this BUT you have to "mess" with the knives because they
are not set correctly now... they have to be set dead on level with
the out feed table...
I will admit that until I bought a magnetic alignment gauge to set the
blades on my Joinder IT DID REQUIRE HOURS to set up correctly....
still takes close to a half hour to do the three knives BUT I only
need to do that once every other blue moon...
Tough to cut tapers without the ability to raise the outfeed, but other than
Sears and AMT got a 6" fixed outfeed from somewhere for a number of years,
Problem of outfeed table drooping - nonexistent.
Most common thing I see happen on the jointer is people want to walk
the board across the knives from right to left. This can cause a
slight rocking motion on the board. Instead you should remain
stationary just back from the knives on the infeed side, and just push
the board across.
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