Based on Robotoy's mention, I approached a client about using this, in lieu of opaque glass, on two desk doors:
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"LOVED it!" picked out the "Shoji Warlon Sheet#5-Extra Strength" on the above page, and I just ordered it this morning.
Never used the stuff before ... anyone with some experience have an idea of how best to both cut, and mount, this material in place of glass in a door?
My first thought is a carbide blade on the table saw?
Clueless, BUT it is rice paper reinforced with a silky fiber and rolled up so I suspect it is not very stiff. I would guess a pair of scissors may do the trick.
As far as mounting it, how about wall paper paste on a (primed) piece of luan? If the paste soaks through the paper, maybe spray-on contact cement? ...or maybe photographic "dry-mounting paper"?
Cool. Not cheap, is it? I've been eyeing some of the new and improved shoji papers for some upcoming CNC project ideas.
How about utility scissors, or the utility knife w/ a new blade? I guess it depends on how thick, brittle, and tough it is.
If too thick, why didn't you immediately think of your Festool saur? I need to do a slight cutdown on an opaque acrylic insert panel for a sunlight in a 30 y/o mobile if I get the carpeting job for its stairs and porch, and I immediately thought of the Makita plunge saur.
-- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732
It is my understanding that this particular item is in sheet form, not rolls, is laminated on both sides with clear PVC, and is made to be used in doors and windows ... at least that is what is stated in the first link above.
I'm thinking that $33/door is reasonable. Don't think I can get a boutique glass for that price?
There's always that. I was hoping it might cut like polycarbonate, which Is quicker to do on the table saw.
Basically I don't have a clue, and neither did the salesperson I talked to the other day. Someone in the know was supposed to return my call yesterday, but no joy there yet.
Yep ... I'm hoping like hell it is something that can be cut to fit and mounted, like a sheet plastic, otherwise a call to the Saturday Night Samurai may be in order. :)
I'm thinking "paper", so $71 for a 3x6' piece seems steep to me.
Prolly not.
Judging by the application, I'd think it was fairly thin. "Extra Strength", to a marketer, might mean an extra 0.002" of resin on each side of a 0.003" paper.
Does it ship in a sheet or rolled? That might be a clue in itself.
-- Truth loves to go naked. --Dr. Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732
I once made a tatami screen with rice paper (non-laminated). Just cut with scissors or sharp knife and glued to frame. The cutter needs to be sharp and the edge of paper clamped under something as the paper tends to tear.
Never seen what you have but I think sawing might be too aggressive. How thick/rigid is it? Tried a knife & straight edge? As far as mounting goes I'd think putting it in a rabbet and backing up the rabbet with a thin molding would work if it is reasonably rigid; if not, same thing but staple in.
Have you actually handled any? I was always under the impression that rice paper was extremely delicate. Of course, this type of it might be reinforced as Leon mentioned.
Actually, it is "reinforced" by being laminated on both sides, with pvc, as the subject line/original post indicated from the beginning.
(seems like most did not scroll down to the actual product in question before replying, apparently assuming everything on the linked page was had the same properties)
Nope, never handled the stuff, again, as I indicated in the first post; and I certainly expect it to be thin, probably very thin, but still in "sheet" form.
Most interesting thing so far is Mike M.'s response ... if that is the nature of the beast, even with both sides laminated, I believe I could handle that process in the video, with some practice ... unfortunately there won't be much material to practice with, thus my post asking if anyone has had any experience with the stuff.
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