Upon reviewing the original article, I have to conclude that
was wrong to even say that it was deceptive. It is inaccurate
of John to claim that he was 'thought he was talking about
drill bits' inasmuch as the article discussed drill bits only
as an way of introducing his book which was the real subject of
his article. In fact, the original article was pretty straight-
forward about that.
Digressing, spam is not spam by virtue of commercial, promotional,
or deceptive intent. It is the volume, for example widespread
or frequent posting or crossposting that makes spam spam.
Historically, advertisements have been discouraged in UseNet
newsgroups, but that is different issue.
As to where we should draw the line here in rec.nahrm, I dunno.
It is generally acceptable to append a plug for one's product,
cause, or free literature to an on-topic article. John's article
started off that way but his discussion is pretty superficial.
Had he given us a description of HOW to make a drill bit into
a forstner bit and then appended his promotion of his free
book the promotional content would have been better
received I think..
I encourage John to post a detailed description of how to
make the bits, and won't mind a bit if he includes a plug
for his book, website, or business along with that useful
This is SPAM? mp, you are the pot calling the kettle black today. You posted
7 times on an OT political discussion just in the last 24 hours...
John, at least, talked about a woodworker and a woodworkers book available
from the author for free download.
Keep it up John.
Several of you asked for more details on how to machine a brad point on an
ordinary twist drill. Krenov didn't elaborate, so I just experimented a
bit. Being basically always in a hurry I opted to use my belt sander. High
Speed Steel is very heat tolerant thankfully. I have a broad piece of 1/8
inch steel plate under the sanding belt of my 6 x 48 inch table mounted
belt sander. I use the flat surface on either side of the belt for
mounting jigs. The primary jig is used to sand the perfectly repeatable 45
degree chamfers on each edge of my toy building blocks. But thats another
topic. I use the edge of the 80 grit belt for grinding the drill bits. (I
really need some visual aids here) I hand hold the bit at an angle so
that one of the sharp cutting edges is parallel to the surface of the
belt. I lower the bit until it touches the steel plate beside the belt. I
then slide the bit sideways into the moving belt, stopping the slide when
there is a small unsanded point in the center of the bit. I then rotate
the bit through about 45 degrees to sand the portion behind the cutting
edge. Sorry, I don't know the vocabulary to describe the parts of a drill
bit. I then repeat with the other side. I don't find that the angles here
are critical. Actually I seem to reduce the cutting angles making for a
less agressive cut. Works great in a drill press. Keeping both cutting
edges perfectly matched sounds important and I do try, but not too
obsessively. Practice on an old bit or two and you will get the hang of
it. Its surprisingly easy. I even tried it on an 1/8 inch bit. Worked
fine, though larger bits are easier. I can send pictures if you email a
request. At the risk for sounding like a shop tool manual here is a
warning. You have to get your eye down pretty close to the action. Lots of
flying grit and metal particles are looking for eyeballs. Wear safety
glasses or better yet a face shield. Also, be patient. Grinding too fast
generates a lot of heat. Take your time. I think I can make the
modification on a bit in about 2 minutes.
Most hardware stores have letter sized bits. Here is a quote from my
dreaded book describing them.
The goal of my earlier post was to share a technique that has been useful
to me (regrinding drill bits). Perhaps referring to my free book was
clumsy or in bad taste. I thought the picture would be helpful and didn't
know how to post one here. I will try to be more careful in the future.
But, all this discussion has made me realize that the drill bit grinding
page in my book needs more pictures and an expanded description. Thanks
very much. I will take your advice. Please keep it coming. I hope every
father, mother, grandfather or grandmother can leave an heirloom rocking
Best of luck to you all,
John the toymaker
<snipped 4 BW>
Thanks for taking the time to post...
I've read the replies, and while the more narrow minded may call it SPAM, I
downloaded the book, and particularly enjoy the quotes liberally sprinkled
(ex.:The only trouble with designing and working in wood is that it has the
advantage - or disadvantage, however you look at it - of being beautiful
in itself...take a piece of wood - plane, sand and oil it, and you will find
is a beautiful thing. The more you do to it from then on, the more chance
that you will make it worse. Therefore, working with a material of such
natural beauty, I feel that we have to design very quietly and use simple
Tage Frid Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking - 1979)
While you do offer to sell plans on your site, this post served (to me) to
offer something for nothing... and in my mind, that isn't SPAM!
This is so much the case. If you love working with wood, it is
almost a love-hate type of thing.
I could slice a cross-section out of a trunk of red oak and
hang it on the wall, I swear...
I know, I have to "kill" the tree to do that.
Not making too much sense I guess - except to me (and
Nah, if you leave them alone they die just fine on their own.
No need to kill the trees to 'maintain' the forest. Forests
are a climax environment, they maintain on their own.
Of course if you want wood you need to kill the trees sooner
befor they die on their own. I think that's what you mean, to
_manage_ a tree farm for lumber you need to kill trees on a
regular basis, right? A good thing too, because the better
we are at managing tree farms the less demand there will be
to kill forest trees for wood.
On 15 Feb 2005 12:07:14 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Fair point if the forest is somehow preserved, but round here we're
short of land. A forest that can justify itself as a tree factory can
survive - something that's just "there" is likely to find itself
getting houses built on it.
In most locales the city (if there is one) or county government
can seize 'undeveloped' land under emminent domain and then re-sell
it for 'developement' making it impossible to preserve. The simple
fact that the land has been preserved is sufficient to legally
I saw no spam. I enjoyed your site and your attitude toward
woodworking. I much prefer roaming through your post and site to
most of the OT drivel that bandies around this group. It also
sure beats someone asking about the best router, table saw, saw
blade, etc with 50 posts following it.
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
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