I started spraying a coat of T-9 Boeshield on my cast iron tops and letting
it dry (unwiped). When I am ready to use the tools I just wipe up the
residue with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
It can sometimes be a pain in the arse, but I now my cast iron tops will be
When you know you will be in between projects for a while, what, if any,
precautions do you take?
(yeah, I want to keep my new saw looking shiny too!)
Probably depends on local climate and I image the shop space itself but here
in the NW a coat of Johnson paste wax keeps my cast iron tops rust free(as
well as hand saws etc.)...once or twice a year I suppose for lightly used
tools or when the spirit moves....basement shop with little to no heat....I
just this week polished the table saw and jointer, not for rust but for
improved material handling(slicker).....Rod
Living in humid Houston I use TopCote, tried Boshield but did not like it
and I got rust any way using it.
I did to a surface re-do in November using Empire Top Saver. I used a 3M
Scotch Brite pad under my ROS and worked the product in. The top cleaned up
very nicely and I really have had no rust problems with just that treatment.
I use wax about once a year, but in between I keep a plywood cover on my
castiron TS table. I waxed the underside of the cover and I think that
helps a lot. It also helps if I have to put something down quickly I
dont scratch the table.
Thanks Andy. I am a little suprised by the lack of responses to this
question. I guess most people either 'never' go in between projects very
long, or they don't care about rust.
The ply wood cover is a good idea. Thanks.
Well, can't say that I've ever pondered on what to do under that type of
circumstance. Having a saw (and a location available for use) means that
I've used it on a regular basis whenever I could. However, I did put a
Rockwell contractor's saw (cast iron top) into an unheated rented storage
locker for a period of five years and at the end of that time, some WD40 and
steel wool were sufficient to remove the surface rust and bring the surface
back to a perfectly flat, smooth usable condition.
In theory. How well does it work in a practical manner? Is better than
leaving a thick coat of boshield or top coat and letting them dry (unwiped)?
Have you found that it is difficult to remove or apply? Have you ever
noticed any left over residue getting on your project and ruining it?
Well, if you want to keep an AK-47 rust free for 2o years, it's what you want to
Think of the gunk that is spread all over new tools... I went through 1/2 a roll
of paper towels and several rags the other night while unpacking a new lathe..
I'd guess that if you didn't wash down your saw with solvent before each use,
you'd want to avoid cosmoline..lol
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 17:08:32 -0500, Garage_Woodworks wrote:
I too use a plywood cover it works great. Surprisingly, I've never had a
rust problem. Of course I live in New Mexico and the only time we have
humidity is some days in July and August. I've always expected some
issue in summer but so far no problems. In winter our RH can get down
into the single digits (percent). I've heard tell of toilets drying out
but never seen it myself. I can say my fish tank loses 2 to 3 gallons of
water per week due to low humidity. Can't say I miss the mid-west with
100 degrees and 100% RH.
I do wax my tables periodically.
D. G. Adams
I would be interested in prices for this stuff - best place to buy it.
Hate to admit it, but the stuff is a bit pricey for me:
I found this: Anyone know a better deal?
TopeCote Amazon Price: $10.55
T-9 Boeshield Amazon Price: $14.75
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