I have to admit I'm one of those who has rarely used a hand plane. Every now
and then I'd grab one to smooth a spot etc.
Recently acquired a Stanley 7C jointer and after tuning and sharpening the
iron made a few passes over some oak. I know the iron was sharpened
correctly but I was getting the shavings jammed between the blade edge and
the front of the throat so that after one or two pushes, it wouldn't cut.
Ultimately determined that when I replaced the frog and tightened it down,
it moved back from the opening by a steenth. Reset it to line up with the
edge of the mouth and all is well.
Which brings me to the point - <g> - What is the purpose of an adjustable
frog. Do you get a smoother cut with a smaller opening?
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
Yes. I'm not even sure why, but the best smoothing planes had adjustable
openings so the opening could be closed as much as possible. I think it
has to do with breaking up the chip; maybe someone else here can explain
the exact mechanism at work here. I do know that my little block plane
with adjustable mouth gives the smoothest cut of all my planes.
Who needs a junta or a dictatorship when you have a Congress
blowing Wall Street, using the media as a condom?
I'ts absolutely about breaking the chip. The blade digs up a chip and
the cap forces it up even further. If there is nothing on the top of
the chip for the cap to lever against, the chip may split farther into
the wood. Setting the frog, and thus the blade, as close as possible to
the front of the mouth forces as sharp a possible bending in the chip,
leading to breaking of the chip. There is a tradeoff, of course. If
the blade is set to cut a thick chip, but the mouth is set to pass a
thin chip, the chips can't pass through the mouth and jam.
On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:56:43 -0800, the infamous "Vic Baron"
Right, you either moved the frog and inadvertently closed the mouth,
or you had the blade set too deep so the shaving was too thick for the
small mouth. Adjust one or both until you get what feels like a happy
medium to you, Vic.
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson
Yes, when I tightened the frog , I inadvertently moved it back from the
opening and the result was that the blade went too deep and also changed the
angle. I realigned the frog and the blade and am getting smooth shavings
I will say one thing though, that long 7C is a bear to push along after a
So you're telling me that if I don't lubricate a potato peeler, I
shouldn't worry about lubricating a hand plane?
I have yet to use the new low angle smooth plane because LV didn't
have any A2 blades in stock and are mailing me one. Guess I'll have to
use it first before I can compare its use to the old block plane I
have. Then I can make a practical decision on the difference.
I wasn't sure *what* he was telling you! :-) It did give me an odd
craving for potato chips though...
I use hand planes quite a bit, and I never bother lubing the soles. I
think it would probably make things a bit easier if I did, but I never
find myself taking the time to even think about. Keeping the soles
clean and polished is probably all that's really necessary, and I'm with
Larry on not wanting to take a chance on transferring any lubricants to
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
Realistically, I can't see it being much difference than using Top
Cote or non silicone paste wax that everyone is always recommending
for a table saw. The only difference is that with one the wood is on
top and with the other it's on the bottom with the wood movement being
I've been using Johnson paste wax for years. It has never affected the
finish. I've always used a plastic glove to apply it because I hate the
feeling one gets after handling a waxy rag. I may have to check out the
Camellia oil, a rag dampened with it may go on more quickly and with less
fuss. I'm assuming one must treat the oil-soaked rag as one would linseed
or tung oil soaked rags?
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
On Sun, 08 Nov 2009 01:27:18 -0500, the infamous email@example.com
scrawled the following:
It's not very thick, planes off with the next shaving, and would
probably work well with any oil-based finish. Since I always rinse
(mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, or denatured alcohol) before
finishing, it's not a problem even if I used a waterborne finish.
A quick rinse would likely fail to get rid of a chunk of candle wax,
which is why I don't use candles.
The Smart Person learns from his mistakes.
The Wise Person learns from the mistakes of others.
And then there are all the rest of us...
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