Question about hand planes

I have to admit I'm one of those who has rarely used a hand plane. Every now and then I'd grab one to smooth a spot etc.

Recently acquired a Stanley 7C jointer and after tuning and sharpening the iron made a few passes over some oak. I know the iron was sharpened correctly but I was getting the shavings jammed between the blade edge and the front of the throat so that after one or two pushes, it wouldn't cut.

Ultimately determined that when I replaced the frog and tightened it down, it moved back from the opening by a steenth. Reset it to line up with the edge of the mouth and all is well.

Which brings me to the point - - What is the purpose of an adjustable frog. Do you get a smoother cut with a smaller opening?

Just curious.

Vic

Reply to
Vic Baron
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On 11/5/2009 10:50 AM Vic Baron spake thus:

Yes. I'm not even sure why, but the best smoothing planes had adjustable openings so the opening could be closed as much as possible. I think it has to do with breaking up the chip; maybe someone else here can explain the exact mechanism at work here. I do know that my little block plane with adjustable mouth gives the smoothest cut of all my planes.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

I'ts absolutely about breaking the chip. The blade digs up a chip and the cap forces it up even further. If there is nothing on the top of the chip for the cap to lever against, the chip may split farther into the wood. Setting the frog, and thus the blade, as close as possible to the front of the mouth forces as sharp a possible bending in the chip, leading to breaking of the chip. There is a tradeoff, of course. If the blade is set to cut a thick chip, but the mouth is set to pass a thin chip, the chips can't pass through the mouth and jam.

Reply to
scritch

Which is what I assume happened to me originally.

Thanx!

Reply to
Vic Baron

You want downward pressure on the material as close to to the cutting edge as possible to avoid chipping out.

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

On Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:56:43 -0800, the infamous "Vic Baron" scrawled the following:

Right, you either moved the frog and inadvertently closed the mouth, or you had the blade set too deep so the shaving was too thick for the small mouth. Adjust one or both until you get what feels like a happy medium to you, Vic.

-- "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical." -- Thomas Jefferson

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I am no expert either but it is my understanding that the smaller opening prevents the wood from splitting deeper, you know how you get chip out on some boards with wild grain when run through an electric planer?

Reply to
Leon

Yes, when I tightened the frog , I inadvertently moved it back from the opening and the result was that the blade went too deep and also changed the angle. I realigned the frog and the blade and am getting smooth shavings now.

I will say one thing though, that long 7C is a bear to push along after a while!

V
Reply to
Vic Baron

I like an adjustable mouth much better than an adjustable frog. Anytime the frog is not flush with the rear of the mouth, it is unsupported. No such problem with an adjustable mouth.

And the new Stanley planes have an adjustable mouth on all models, not just the block planes. I haven't used one of the new ones, but they sure look a lot better than the regular Stanleys.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

On 11/6/2009 8:48 AM Vic Baron spake thus:

You are lubricating it by waxing the sole, aren't you?

All you need is a hunk of candle wax on your bench. Rub it on the bottom periodically. Makes a *huge* difference.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 08:48:34 -0800, the infamous "Vic Baron" scrawled the following:

It's picking it up and walking back to the start which kills you. ;)

-- "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical." -- Thomas Jefferson

Reply to
Larry Jaques

On Fri, 06 Nov 2009 13:29:32 -0800, the infamous David Nebenzahl scrawled the following:

Camellia oil is the traditional lube.

-- "To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical." -- Thomas Jefferson

Reply to
Larry Jaques

On 11/7/2009 9:33 AM Larry Jaques spake thus:

So do you think that would actually be *better* than candle wax?

Might smell better, I'll grant you that. More expen$ive, though.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

On Sat, 07 Nov 2009 13:19:34 -0800, the infamous David Nebenzahl scrawled the following:

Q: Have you ever tried to _finish_ a piece of wood which had candle wax on it? I try to keep all adulterants out of the shop area.

Nuff said?

-- The Smart Person learns from his mistakes. The Wise Person learns from the mistakes of others. And then there are all the rest of us...

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Reply to
Larry Jaques

So what would you consider suitable? I've just bought a new plane so this would be pertinent to me. How about Lee Valley's Dricote lubricant which I just happen to already have on hand?

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Reply to
upscale

Think of a hand plane as a potato peeler for wood.

Operates exactly the same way.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

So you're telling me that if I don't lubricate a potato peeler, I shouldn't worry about lubricating a hand plane?

I have yet to use the new low angle smooth plane because LV didn't have any A2 blades in stock and are mailing me one. Guess I'll have to use it first before I can compare its use to the old block plane I have. Then I can make a practical decision on the difference.

Reply to
upscale

I wasn't sure *what* he was telling you! :-) It did give me an odd craving for potato chips though...

I use hand planes quite a bit, and I never bother lubing the soles. I think it would probably make things a bit easier if I did, but I never find myself taking the time to even think about. Keeping the soles clean and polished is probably all that's really necessary, and I'm with Larry on not wanting to take a chance on transferring any lubricants to the wood.

Reply to
Steve Turner

Realistically, I can't see it being much difference than using Top Cote or non silicone paste wax that everyone is always recommending for a table saw. The only difference is that with one the wood is on top and with the other it's on the bottom with the wood movement being reversed.

Reply to
upscale

I've never seen the need to use any form of lubricant on my hand planes. I occasionally (once or twice a year) polish the soles by hand with steel wool. Works for me.

diggerop

Reply to
diggerop

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