I bought a Stanley #5 at a garage sale today. ($11, don't know if that is a
gloat or not.)
It works, but obviously needs to be sharpened. I have never sharpened
anything before. A little advice on how to do it, or a good link, would be
I don't need to make it "scary-sharp", just reasonably sharp so it will work
a little better. Thanks.
I am debating whether or not to go back for the Milwaukee right-angle drill
they had for $40. I might not ever need it, but it sure will be money well
spent if I do. I guess I going to hedge; if it is still there tomorrow,
they will probably take $25.
Sharpening is an important skill and activity in the shop. Although
both have only black-and-white photos here's two good books:
The Complete Guide to Sharpening, Leonard Lee, The Taunton Press,
1995, ISBN 1-56158-067-8
Sharpening The Complete Guide, Jim Kingshott, Guild of Master
Craftsman Publications Ltd., 1994, ISBN 0-946819-48-3
For the basics. Have a look at the rest of the site for other useful
Oh, yes you do. Whether or not you use the scary-sharp method or not, you
need shaving-sharp, or it will not perform to its best: it will take longer,
you will not enjoy using it, it'll cost you much more effort, and you'll
have a second-rate surface afterwards.
It's a decent plane and you got it at a good price. Learn how to sharpen it
properly and keep it that way and it will become a lifelong friend. T'ain't
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone many
years ago and never actually used it until today) and the results great.
I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came out pretty decent.
And yes, I can see why even sharper would be better. I will work on it.
Once you get the hang of it, the difference between getting a blade
pretty sharp, and getting it scary sharp, is less than a minute.
You'll never spend a few seconds so profitably as here (unless you're
in the habit of cutting pieces too short, in which case the measure
twice rule would be an even more profitable use of a few seconds, but
the point is that learning to sharpen well is a skill that will reward
you in spades as a woodworker).
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
I have a Tormek. That is a nice tool, and I use it for the first stages, but it does
not do scary sharp. The hand touch is what gives me the results I seek. I especially
like 3M's Imperial lapping films. Awesome and dry to boot !
Ken Muldrew is quite correct.
A Tormek is a great tool, but hundreds of dollars to sharpen a first plane?
Cheaper to buy replacement blades from Lee-Valley!
Scary sharp is a system of sharpening plane irons and chisels, in your
shop, with less than $20 worth of materials, and maybe 10 minutes of
At least as good an investment as your $11 jack (also a good deal, by the
email@example.com wrote in message
FYI, I'm pretty sure John G was just teasing Ron. Back when John
was known as Spokeshave and taught shavemaking classes, he had Ron
make up special blades for his shaves.
Chuck Vance (who uses Hock irons in his #4, #7, #60-1/2, #80,
plus a couple of wooden planes and has a large and small
No just baiting the newbies who have no clue who I am/was.
Indeed, even crashed on his couch and used one of his finest knives to
shave up some smoked salmon his Bro' brought for breakfast. what a great
weekend in Ft. Bragg.
I don't even want to THINK of how many Hock Iron's I own ;-(
Nice to see he FINALLY came out with a cap iron though.
I was only pestering him for like 3 or 4 years to do it.
John G. in Memphis, TN Have a nice......... night.
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