How to sharpen a plane?

I bought a Stanley #5 at a garage sale today. ($11, don't know if that is a gloat or not.) It works, but obviously needs to be sharpened. I have never sharpened anything before. A little advice on how to do it, or a good link, would be appreciated. I don't need to make it "scary-sharp", just reasonably sharp so it will work a little better. Thanks.

I am debating whether or not to go back for the Milwaukee right-angle drill they had for $40. I might not ever need it, but it sure will be money well spent if I do. I guess I going to hedge; if it is still there tomorrow, they will probably take $25.

Reply to
John
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Sharpening is an important skill and activity in the shop. Although both have only black-and-white photos here's two good books:

The Complete Guide to Sharpening, Leonard Lee, The Taunton Press,

1995, ISBN 1-56158-067-8

Sharpening The Complete Guide, Jim Kingshott, Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd., 1994, ISBN 0-946819-48-3

Reply to
Phisherman

John,

Have a look at:

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the basics. Have a look at the rest of the site for other useful plane-related info.

Oh, yes you do. Whether or not you use the scary-sharp method or not, you need shaving-sharp, or it will not perform to its best: it will take longer, you will not enjoy using it, it'll cost you much more effort, and you'll have a second-rate surface afterwards.

It's a decent plane and you got it at a good price. Learn how to sharpen it properly and keep it that way and it will become a lifelong friend. T'ain't that hard.

Cheers,

Frank

Reply to
Frank McVey

Rule of thumb with yard sales, flea markets, estate sales, even Sam's discount club:

If you like it the first time you see it, buy it. 9 times out of 10 when you go back to get it, someone else already has. (Sam's usually doesn't carry the same "special" more than once.) DAMHIKT.

-- I still can't understand people buying $30,000 trucks to haul their $15,000 boats, using $100 of gas, to catch $5 worth of fish.

Duke

Reply to
Dukester

Oh yes you do! :-)

If you are able to work reasonably well with the plane (or a chisel), then it *is* scary-sharp.

Carlos

Reply to
Carlos Moreno

I sharpened it according to the instructions (I bought a wet stone many years ago and never actually used it until today) and the results great. I edge-jointed a piece of rough cherry and it came out pretty decent. And yes, I can see why even sharper would be better. I will work on it. Thanks.

Reply to
John

Once you get the hang of it, the difference between getting a blade pretty sharp, and getting it scary sharp, is less than a minute. You'll never spend a few seconds so profitably as here (unless you're in the habit of cutting pieces too short, in which case the measure twice rule would be an even more profitable use of a few seconds, but the point is that learning to sharpen well is a skill that will reward you in spades as a woodworker).

Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)

Reply to
Ken Muldrew

Reply to
Dave

I have a Tormek. That is a nice tool, and I use it for the first stages, but it does not do scary sharp. The hand touch is what gives me the results I seek. I especially like 3M's Imperial lapping films. Awesome and dry to boot !

Ken Muldrew is quite correct.

Hoyt W.

Reply to
Hoyt Weathers

"Dave" wrote in news:f6Otc.15233$Ly.3155@attbi_s01:

A Tormek is a great tool, but hundreds of dollars to sharpen a first plane? Cheaper to buy replacement blades from Lee-Valley!

Scary sharp is a system of sharpening plane irons and chisels, in your shop, with less than $20 worth of materials, and maybe 10 minutes of learning time.

At least as good an investment as your $11 jack (also a good deal, by the way.)

Patriarch

Reply to
patriarch

That is a good price.I just looked at the reference and it fails to mention flattening the back.

That is where I start, by getting the back side really flat, using a coarse stone and following up with a finer stone.

If you thing about it the working end of that blade really needs to be a v not a u. Hard to show using plain text. I happen to use water stones but oil stones will work just as well. I do have a little eclipse honing guide which will give better results for having the same angle clear across. Anne

Reply to
Anne Watson

Also I see on 3M's site there are several thicknesses, which do you use? Thanks.

Reply to
Paul O.

For the price of a Tormek I bought my Norris A5 and still had enough change left to equip for scary sharp.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

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Hock HOCK TOOLS
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Reply to
Hock Tools

Thanks! ....Both good sites!

Reply to
Schroeder

JG wrote in news:tQKvc.20302$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.columbus.rr.com:

yabbutt.... It isn't like he charges for the information! ;-)

He DOES sell fine blades, however. Even for spokeshaves. ;-)

Patriarch

Reply to
patriarch

hang on a second there....

Ron's post has good woodworking info in it.

Yours has?

Reply to
bridger

Nope, plug. Still nice blades though.

Dave in Farfax

Reply to
dave in fairfax

dave in fairfax wrote in news:40BFB05E.64CC88A2 @fairfax.com:

And don't forget the chip breakers; those are mighty fine, also ...

Regards, JT

Reply to
John Thomas

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