We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.
There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?
I have never seen or used corner chisel. It sounds a good tool for rough
surfaces, but can it do a smooth finishing touch. What is the reference you
use with that tool to get all the edges square and straight?
Here's a link to a catalog listing for the one I have. It's
self-aligning. They're available from a number of manufacturers
and suppliers and they all work more or less the same.
Hope this helps.
Try raising the TS blade as high as it will go and flipping the stock
over to zero in on both sides.
Bandsaw with a fence would work well, as would a (good) jigsaw/blade
combo with a straightedge.
Have you got a hollow chisel mortiser?
How about a CNC router?!
Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or a
I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64"
up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't seen any
of those bits with an adequate cutting length to clear the
chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut.
Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive than
corner chisels. (-:
If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and HCM and playing
with them all day long. =)
PS. Now I am dreaming for a tilting HCM. I am waiting for the GE 75-050T1
to be available on the dealers.
PPS. I will try the corner chisel for the 1/2 plywood cut.
PPPS. The surface from bandsaw is too rough for the application.
Reasonable capacity lasers are fairly expensive relative to most
shop tools. The last time I priced laser cutters, they were more
expensive than my entire existing 96"x48"x6" CNC setup. I decided
that I'd best do without.
My HCM is a cheapie (<$100) from Harbor Freight and works well. I
don't use it often; but have been satisfied with its performance
I've seen good used 3-axis CNC routers for sale with a $2500
asking price. That seems like a fairly hefty sum until you add up
the costs of all the stuff they replace. You may be able to find
even lower prices if you monitor offerings on E-Bay and some of
the CNC forums like http://cnczone.com/classifieds/index.php and
I use a jig saw (Bosch 1587AVSK), like you did, on inside corners that are
too big for the band saw (read kick plate cutouts on cabinet sides).
A good jigsaw, a sharp, straight, high quality blade and, very importantly,
a framing square or edge guide of the appropriate size for a saw guide, will
generally give me a cut you can't tell from the table saw blade.
If you can, plans the cuts so that you can make the inside ones first,
giving you a stable base for whatever edge guide you use.
It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line.
What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand
coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or
right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model?
That's an excellent jigsaw. See if you can find an assortment of Bosch
blades, and try several. In the manual that came with mine, there were
recommendations on what blade to use for what purpose. When I read the
manual, and followed the instructions, the saw performed MUCH better.
I guess there's a first time for everything, right? ;-)
To make a long story short, to cut a straight line with a jigsaw, you will
always get better results with a straight edge/saw guide to guide the cut.
On reasonably short cuts, I use one of two different sizes of framing
squares only because they are easy to hold with your free hand or clamp. Any
straight edge that you can hold, or clamp, on the workpiece along side the
cut will do.
Whatever fits. Put it on whatever side of the workpiece will take it and is
comfortable for you to cut on.
No need ... just get good blades and use a straight edge/guide of some type.
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