I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
looks like those metal ones but is wood and has a weight-bananced lid
- our garbage service is $65/mo, you have to take the cans weeksly to
the end of the road and I am often away to boot - and want to shingle
those amazing wavy line patterns often seen on old building in
england. Does anyone know how this is done? Does one shorten the
shingles in that part of a course, does one add multiple shingles
underneath a course, to get the 3-D and ripple effect or what? I
I'd start by applying the shingles with hot glue to see how it might
come together, then take it all
apart and nail/staple once it looks satisfactory, but any thought or
references would be appreciated...Thanks for any help.
I've done a few cedar roofs, but haven't done the type of work you're after.
You can expose 18 inch machine cut cedar shingles as much as 7.5 inches to the
weather on a vertical surface. So go nuts with the layers, just making sure to
cover the preceeding course's key(the space between the shingles). On a pitch
of 4 in 12 to "steep mansard", the exposure should be no more than 5 inches.
The real pertinant instructions usually come with every bundle of
cedar(starters, fastener type, etc.). Tom
>> I built a grand plywood dumpster off to th side of the driveway (it
To make a wave pattern in a sidewall application you begin by defining the wave
you want, a repeating wave, same frequency and duration repeating with 5"
exposure to weather would require two different sets of shingle cuts. Eg. a wave
that is 10" from peak to trough vertically and 2' from peak to trough
horizontally would build like this: Connect the two segments of the circle to
create the full wave ~ onto sheets of plywood so you have 4 eight foot patterns
to work with 2 for A and 2 for B courses, center of the peak goes to center of
the plywood. I like the 2' reflection because of the ease of the repetition and
the resulting 5 7/8" shingles look good. Buy 3x the amount of shingles necessary
to cover the area, set aside any shingle less than 5 7/8, rip the remaining to 5
7/8, this allows a 3/16-1/4" keyway, depending on the finish of the shingle, and
proper nailing with no shiners. Divide the patterns into sections reflecting the
shingles plus space for keyway, start from the center and remember to offset
pattern #B by half of a shingle in order to provide for proper overlaps in each
course. There are your wave courses, 'A' should be 8 shingles and 'B' should
be 9 shingles, cut it with a band saw, jig saw, scroll saw, cnc, or router with
a jig. Its quite tedious, but I use a router to plow out the area for the keyway
and glue in a dividing strip to create the space between shingles, the exposed
portion of the strip will be 1/16" smaller than the thickness of the bottom of
the shingles. Take the second A pattern plywood (yes all of the plywood patterns
are the same, but label them anyway, you will thank me) and create a sandwich,
slide the shingles into the resulting slots and use a cutoff bit with a top or
bottom guide bearing and have at it. You need to make sure that the thickest
part of your shingle is still left on the shingle so that none of your cut
shingles are shorter than what you started with. This will keep the wall dry and
while it may not look like it, you maintain the triple overlap of the shingles.
I mark the top of each shingle with its placement in the pattern, A1-A8: B1-B9
box them up and send them to be prefinished. If your willing to take this on,
you should already know how to start a wall so Im leaving that out. But level
lines do not lie to you. Kind of fancy for a dumpster but looks great on a beach
house gable. Sorry for the 12 year delay in answering!
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.