I want to create a biplane for a World War 1 show but I don't know how to build such a plane.
How can I craft a wooden biplane, that will really fly?
I want to create a biplane for a World War 1 show but I don't know how to build such a plane.
How can I craft a wooden biplane, that will really fly?
You bring back a lot of memories Doug.
BTW, the Spad Pursuit was a favortite of mine.
Lew
Yup, I have a few hanging from the ceiling, and a half dozen unopened on the shelf for my bucket list.
One isn't on their list anymore - a 1/77 scale balsa and tissue Columbia shuttle - 19" length, 13" wingspan. I think I'll build that one next... maybe.
Ever do any power, either free flight or U-Control?
Lew
About 5 decades or so ago, I did the U-control thing. Kept me building replacements :-( Now, I just try to make 'em pretty and hang 'em up for display.
It's amazing how they double or triple in weight by adding paint!
Same kind of time frame (early 50's)
U-Control was combat time.
Straight pins in the leading edge of the wing, a crepe paper stringer connected to the tail, and have at it.
Jimmy Walker had a couple of balsa wood slab side fuselage planes you could build in a couple of days.
Wipe out on Sunday, stop at hobby shop on way home and buy a plane, show up Wednesday night ready to fly.
Had a Fox .35 which was a screamer.
Good combat engine.
Free flight was strictly 1/2 A stuff.
Built several "Sniffer" models and trashed a few along the way.
Baby Spitfire 045 was a great free flight engine.
Drug store asked me why I needed salt peter.
Had to explain it was for fuses to destabilize the plane a bring it down.
Wonder what would happen if you tried that today?
When I quit, must have had 15-18 engines.
Dope is heavy, especially if on fabric rather than paper.
Sealer helps a little.
Lew
Doh, man! Servo weights are measured in grams or fractional ounces these days. Free flight is what happens when the transmitter battery dies. I didn't take them seriously at first, but the flat foam core things they sell now fly extremely well. It's worth a look if you haven't peeked since, oh,
1940.
In the '70's I worked for Sullivan Products so I did it all and for cheap. RC cars too.
I've seen some in cast iron like the Stanley #130, but no wooden biplanes :)
PLEASE DO NOT FEED THE TROLL
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Sheesh! The troll got quite a few responses from this one.
If you must respond, remove the extraneous score keeping newsgroup. As I just did.
Contact these folks:
Build it like this
Fisher Flying Products has good wooden biplane kits - reasonable too. Now CANADIAN company north of Toronto.
DFTFT. If you find it impossible to resist responding to troll posts, at least remove the crosspost to the troll's target group first -- in this case, de.alt.augenoptik
Apparently you did not read the multiple posts that pointed out this was a spammer trolling for responses.
If you must respond please, please, please remove the "scorekeeping" website. In this case it was de.alt.augenoptik.
These are "toys" compare with the real thing that flies. Yes, it brings back memories, when I was a licensed A&P mechanic during my early career. I first got into woodworking making wings' ribs and spars. These are made from Spruce. The wings and fuselage skins were linen finished with dope. The glue we used was Urea Formaldehyde. I believed we used Delta's contractors saw and 6" jointer and no planer. I have worked on Stinson, Waco, British"s Auster, Tiger Moth and not forgetting Cessnar140, 150, including Pipers Club, DC-3 and many more which I have long forgotten. I had overhauled, Continental, Lycoming, Pratt & Whitney, Wright, Royce Royces, Bristol, Dehavilland inline and radial engine. I even have the pleasure of working on the French's Leonies engine. My end my career in B747 and DC-10 many years ago. I still have my CAB's power plants handbook but misplaced my airplane handbook, which spelled out detail requirement in repaired steel tubing, Spruce wood and others requirement.
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