How to clean plastic-bristled brush used for applying polyurethane? (Ecofriendly process preferred ...)

[NoSpam]

I have a woodworking project I'm starting but don't know how to clean the brush after applying coats of polyurethane. Any recommendations?

Thanks.

[FairFax]

I have a woodworking project I'm starting but don't know how to clean the brush after applying coats of polyurethane. Any recommendations?

Thanks.

[Leon]

First you need to know what kind of poly you are using. Oil or water based.

Oil based, clean with mineral spirits or thinner. Water based, clean with warm soap and water.

This all works well if you are planing ahead. If the poly is already dried on the brush, toss it and plan ahead next time.

[Scott Lurndal]

Generally, the can of finish will include cleanup instructions. It will also generally include a toll-free phone number that you can use to follow up on any questions after reading the can.

[FairFax]

Geez, didn't know there were two types . But it turns out that what I bought is oil-based.

Thanks for the education!

[FairFax]

Cool, thanks.

[dadiOH]

You already got them re cleaning, mine is this:

Don't use a brush with artificial bristles for ANY oil base coat...use bristle, the best you can afford.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Just wait till the brush dries out then you can just blow the dust off with a an air hose.

[FairFax]

Darn. Oh, well. It's a one-time job and money is tight so I might have to pass on that. I don't like plastic bristles myself but the deal was too good to pass on. The set came with about 6 brushes of different sizes and cost about $2.99. thx.

[FairFax]

Is this really the case? Seems a bit too good to be true, no? thx.

[Edward Hennessey]

F:

You can blow the dust out, just not the paint.

A couple of other tips would be:

*Try not to get paint in the upper third of the brush. Try. Painting upside down makes gravity the enemy.

*If you are using a water-based paint, very, very lightly pre-wet the brush and use a brush spinner or very gently flick the brush along its length across a board or something to get most of it out. Water-based paint will load better this way.

*When you do get paint in the forbidden zone and intend to use the brush again, you might find a fine comb good at removing it. Don't let the paint cake in that region because it's no fun getting it out.

*The solvent/water (depends on the paint) cleaning followed by a detergent and water cleaning works nicely. Rinsing with pure water to purge the second mix is the last step. If you have a brush spinner, you can use that to dry the brush or flick it along its length to drive off the moisture.

*When through cleaning, putting the brush in the supplied cardboard sleeve you don't have would be nice. A gentle winding with cling wrap also is good. This helps the brush retain it's designed shape if you didn't mash it.

*Remember the name "Purdy". Great brushes. If you want to hold a fine line or paint a particular angled area or cover an area of certain width, they make dedicated brushes. They're not cheap, but, just like ladies, if you treat them well, age hardly withers nor does time stale them. Someone here will tell you of a well-tended Purdy that could probably be in Junior High by now.

*Ask your paint store about the foam "hot dog" rollers and your paint. Sometimes you use them alone. Sometimes on complex things like doors in combo with brushes. For certain paints, the furry knap rollers are good too.

*Start high and work down low. That way you don't drip on finished areas.

*If you have to stop in the middle of a painting project, some people refigerate their brushes wrapped in cling film. I haven't tried it. But if a brush gets gummy on a hot day, I will stop for a cleaning before continuing.

*Ask about blue painter's tape. Ask how to get the best edge seal by burnishing. Frog tape is mighty fine but not mighty cheap.

*Don't believe every bit of the above is gospel or the whole of it. Other people will have good ideas.

*Next time, say you're a lady to start. We don't often get the chance to practice at the gentleman thing.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

[Lew Hodgett]

---------------------------- At $0.50/brush, it will cost more for solvent to clean the brush than it is worth.

Lew

[nailshooter41]

I have painted a lot of metal doors with the foam hog dog rollers. A

6" roller makes short work of doors, and since most metal doors on commercial jobs are beat up anyway, this is an excellent solution. As long as you work fast and don't reuse, they work fine with oil based paints.

I use them on just about anything I can outside, including door and window trims, siding trims, and anything else that has any kind of texture that doesn't require smooth a finish.

Robert

[-MIKE-]

In that case, don't bother cleaning them... toss em.

[Baron]

Cleaning a brush actually starts with preparation before using it. Saturate the bristles with the appropriate solvent for your finish before starting to use it. In the case of oil based polyurethane, that would be mineral spirits. Make sure you get the solvent all the way up to the ferrule. Shake out the excess solvent. When you are using the brush, dip the bristles into the finish no more than half way up the brush. These two procedures keep the finish from getting up into the ferrule where it is hard to clean.

To clean the brush after you are done with it:

1) Wipe off the excess polyurethane from the brush onto some newspaper or equivalent. 2) Swish the brush in some mineral spirits three times using fresh mineral spirits each time. Really work the solvent into the bristles on the last rinse. 3) Squeeze out the remaining mineral spirits using your hands and some rags or paper towels or swish the brush in some lacquer thinner to help remove the mineral spirits and replace it with something a bit more water soluble. I do not use the lacquer thinner method. 4) Clean the bristles using water and something like LESTOIL or PINESOL. Make sure you rinse out all the cleaning agent. I have started using MASTERS BRUSH CLEANER instead. It is like a soap / shampoo made for brushes. It does a great job and conditions the bristles, especially natural bristles. Just follow the directions on the container. 5) Spin the brush or whip it to remove the remaining water. 6) Wrap the brush with paper to preserve the desired shape.

Good Luck.

[FairFax]

Ah, thanks!

(couple?? Lots, thank you!!)

That's so very kind, thank you! Now there you've gone and made me feel all mush!

Thanks for the excellent help. I read all this and all a great education all at once! Thanks. I've never had the need to paint/strip, etc., so this is new territory and was a bit intimidating. Dad did give me a couple of pointers before he flew out of the country but I haven't wanted to bother him for more since he's got so much on his plate. So thanks much! Much appreciated.

[FairFax]

Thanks. I never would have thought of using a roller for this type of job. Good point.

[Joe]

And after you have to sand it back down and start over because of dropped bristles, it's false economy. I've wiped it on with a rag - works great. Old t-shirt cut into 4" squaresis fine. Cut off loose threads. Cut the poly half to two-thirds with mineral spirits, stir well, and start wiping. Once you wipe out any big streaks - STOP. It skins faster than you would think and you end up with a mess. Do lots of thin layers and lightly sand between coats. Google it.

[Father Haskell]

Ammonia is cheaper than mineral spirits. Soak the brush in a 1:4 ammonia:water mix and rinse clean outdoors.

[Father Haskell]

In which case, soaking in ammonia might or might not cut the hardened poly and restore the brush. Worth a shot if the brush was other than the cheapest.