Thanks for the feedback. I can understand what you say and I will investigate your idea.
I am thinking of what you said, with washers and bolts inside to keep the outer pip equidistant from the threaded rod inside. I've not got a pipe cutter so will need to price one up.
Thanks
Marc
Hi,
There has been a whole lot of good suggestions given as methods to complete your project. And I personally would use one or more of those suggestions.
However, If you are determined to center drill dowels, then you need two things, 1) a jig to hold the dowel perfectly straight in line with the drill bit,with the dowel centered under the drill bit, this you would have to build yourself. 2) What not one of these fine gentlemen has said yet, and that is that you would need a "D" drill, or as they are sometimes called a "Gun Drill" as this is the only type of drill that will drill a perfectly straight hole without following the grain of the wood. A twist drill will never drill a straight hole through a dowel length.
I usually make my own "D" drills when I need to drill center holes in dowels, like when I have to have one dowel turning inside of a larger dowel, in a clock movement. Since you will only be drilling a relative few, so you will not need high quality metal for the drill. any rod of the right diameter will work. I have even used a piece of wire.
============================== From Google grouprec_crafts_woodturning.htm
My favorite long drill bit is the D bit. This is an easy grind, no more complicated than "fixing" the horrible shape on most roughing gouges.
Here's some basic grinding instructions from Michael T Averill . This has to be viewed in a fixed width font.
---------- begin quote
--------------------------------------------------- The profile is as follows ( best I can do in a text document).
|-------------------- | \------------------ Side View \______________________________________
Exactly half the diameter is removed for a distance of about 1 inch.
/--------------|------------------ / | / | Top View \________________|__________________
The point is one quarter of the diameter in from side. Angles used are similar to those shown.
In use withdraw the bit frequently to clear chips and when it gets hot stop and let it cool down. Finally don't force it, let it cut at it's own rate. With care a hole 1/8" diameter hole 18" long can be bored without an noticeable wander. The finnish on the bores is excellent. ===============================
If that will help anyone.
Jack
M C wrote:
| Hi, | | Novice woodworker here, please help! | | I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels | as the vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm | dowels (or metal stud) going through the full height of the unit on | each corner so as to secure it all together. | | I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through | their complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. | (4 corners x 6 shelves = 24 dowels). | | I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very | successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have | liked it. I don't want my finished unit to be wonky! | | I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a | drill stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available. | | How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ??? | | Any help would be much appreciated!
Marc...
You'll need help from someone with a lathe big enough to turn your spindles (no huhu, we all need help from time to time.)
Drill your 8mm holes through round, square, or whatever spindle stock that's bigger than 35mm. Take these to the 'someone with a lathe' and have them turn 'em down to 35mm with your hole in the center.
Reward them appropriately (cash, beer, or something gee-whiz that you've made) to make you both feel good about the help given/received.
Take the spindles home and finish your project. Think about how neat it'd be to have your own lathe.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
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